Recommended Fabrics

We recommend light- to medium-weight wovens with some body and crispness: cotton sateen, poplin, oxford, seersucker, chambray, madras, lawn, voile, shirting, broadcloth (i.e. quilting cottons), corduroy, twill, and eyelet; linen and linen blends; and lightweight wool suitings and flannel. Alternatively, for a more glamorous finished garment (and a more challenging sewing project), silk taffeta, dupioni, or shantung may also be used.

Knit fabrics are not recommended for this design.

Notions & Supplies

• Fabric for the dress
• Contrast fabric for the collar (optional)
• Thread to match
• Lightweight fusible interfacing (woven, weft, or tricot types)
• 1¼-inch-wide (3.2 cm) fusible tricot stay tape to stabilize the zipper opening (alternatively, cut a strip from a scrap of fusible interfacing yardage)
• 22-inch regular nylon zipper
• 2-inch-wide (5.1 cm) belt buckle
• Hook-and-bar closure (optional)

Not sure which size range to choose? Learn about our two size ranges here.

Sizes 2-20

Sizes 18-34

The Maria Dress was designed to fit with approximately 2-1/2 inches (6.4 cm) of ease in the bust and 1 inch (2.5 cm) of ease in the waist. The hip ease is not important, as the skirt is very full.

Sizes 2-20 Finished Measurements

Sizes 18-34 Finished Measurements

The companion step-by-step sew-along video is available on YouTube.

Measure yourself around your upper bust (under your armpits and above your breasts, without a bra on), the fullest part of your bust (while wearing your preferred bra), the smallest part of your waist, and the fullest part of your hips (this is likely around the fullest part of your butt). Make sure to hold the measuring tape snugly and parallel to the ground. Compare your body measurements to the size chart.

Find your upper bust measurement on the size chart to find your garment size, and then scan down the cup sizes in that garment size column to find your cup size. For instance, a 37-inch upper bust will make you a size 10, and a 39-inch full bust means you need a B cup. Don’t worry if your waist doesn’t match the size 10 column’s measurement of 32 inches; you can grade the waist in or out as needed. It is most important to choose a size to fit your upper bust and cup size, as the waist is easier to adjust up or down.

Sewing pattern sizes are very different from ready-to-wear garments and bra sizes, so be sure to work with your measurements when choosing a size.

Charm’s 2-20 size range is designed for a body with an hourglass shape. Our 18-34 size range is designed for a body with less waist definition.

Still not sure which size range to choose? Learn more about our two size ranges here.

If you have never used a PDF pattern before, this short video is full of tips: How to Use A PDF Pattern.

It will show you how to choose which PDF format to use, how to print just your size(s), and how to easily assemble and cut out your pattern pieces.

We offer digital patterns in two formats: letter-sized PDFs to print at home and A0 sized PDFs to print at a copy shop. In the US, we highly recommend printing A0 files with The Plotted Pattern. Outside of the US, these printers have been recommended.

The Maria Pencil Skirt can be used instead of the full skirt, as shown in Gertie’s magenta sheath dress. It has pockets!

There are two simple hacks (available to our members) for the dress. The sweetheart neckline hack and the ruched princess seam hack can be used on any similar dress.