Meet the Princess Coat! Princess coats from the ’50s are some of the most breathtaking examples of vintage glamour. Lilli Ann was the premiere fashion label behind these coats and they are highly collectible today—with sky-high price tags.
The good news is that princess coats are both fun and incredibly satisfying to make for yourself, so you don’t have to wait for the perfect vintage piece to come along in your size! Armed with a little tailoring knowledge (which I will guide you through), it’s not out of reach to make this style for yourself. The best part is that you can fit our Princess Coat pattern to your own unique figure, making it a truly custom-fit, bespoke piece of clothing. Our range of sizes 2–20 (plus cup sizes in A–H) make this style truly accessible to anyone with a sewing machine and a little gumption.
Of course, here at Charm Patterns we specialize in pairing vintage glamour with mix-and-match options. That’s why we have options for both jackets and coats in this pattern, with a range of interchangeable sleeves (both slim and tailored or full and flamboyant), collar variations, and even a flared peplum (to get that dramatic Lilli Ann suit silhouette!). Our famous “Choose Your Own Sewing Adventure” style of instructions let you be the mistress of your own sewing destiny by guiding you through the process for your unique design choices.

Recommended Fabrics, Supplies, and Yardage Requirements
Recommended Fabrics
For cold weather outerwear, we recommend: medium- to heavy-weight wool and wool blend coating and suiting fabrics, melton wool, boiled wool, boucle, wool flannel, tweed, double crepe.
For warmer weather versions, we recommend: medium-weight silks and cottons like sateen, satin, twill, brocade, dupioni, denim, corduroy.
For rainwear: laminated cottons and waterproof rainwear fabrics.
For the lining: light- to medium-weight silks and lining fabrics.
Interfacing: weft insertion or light- to medium-weight woven or tricot fusible interfacing.
Knit fabrics are not recommended for this design.
Notions & Supplies
- Fabric for the coat
- Lining fabric
- Thread to match
- Lightweight fusible interfacing (look for woven, weft, or tricot types)
- Muslin (calico) fabric for the backstay
- Small piece of silk organza to finish the bound buttonholes
- Three 1-1/8 inch (2.8 cm) buttons or snaps
| Piece Name | Sizes 2-10 | Sizes 12-20 |
| Bodice, Fabric (1, 2, 3, 4, 13, 14, 37) | ||
| 45 in | 1-3/4 yd 1.6 m |
2 yd 1.8 m |
| 60 in | 1-3/8 yd 1.3 m |
1-1/2 yd 1.4 m |
| Bodice, Interfacing (1, 13, 14, 25, 26) | ||
| 60 in | 1 yd 0.9 m |
1 yd 0.9 m |
| Backstay, Muslin (27) | ||
| 45 in and 60 in | 1/2 yd 0.5 m |
1/2 yd 0.5 m |
| Bodice, Lining (18, 19, 20, 21) | ||
| 45 in | 1 yd 0.9 m |
1 yd 0.9 m |
| 60 in | 5/8 yd 0.6 m |
3/4 yd 0.7 m |
| Bell Sleeve, Fabric (9, 12) | ||
| 45 in and 60 in | 1-1/2 yd 1.4 m |
1-1/2 yd 1.4 m |
| Bell Sleeve, Lining (22) | ||
| 45 in and 60 in | 1-1/8 yd 1 m |
1-1/8 yd 1 m |
| Bell Sleeve, Interfacing (12) | ||
| 60 in | 3/8 yd 0.3 m |
3/8 yd 0.3 m |
| Lantern Sleeve, Fabric (9, 10, 11) | ||
| 45 in and 60 in | 1-3/4 yd 1.6 m |
1-3/4 yd 1.6 m |
| Lantern Sleeve, Lining (22, 10) | ||
| 45 in and 60 in | 1-3/4 yd 1.6 m |
1-3/4 yd 1.6 m |
| Lantern Sleeve, Interfacing (11) | ||
| 60 in | 1/4 yd 0.2 m |
1/4 yd 0.2 m |
| Long or Three-Quarter Tailored Sleeve, Fabric and Lining | ||
| 45 in and 60 in | 3/4 yd 0.7 m |
3/4 yd 0.7 m |
| Full Skirt, Fabric (5, 6, 7, 8, 15) | ||
| 45 in | 3-1/4 yd 3 m |
3-1/2 yd 3.2 m |
| 60 in | 2-1/8 yd 1.9 m |
2-3/8 yd 2.2 m |
| Full Skirt, Lining (6, 7, 8, 23, 24) | ||
| 45 in | 3 yd 2.7 m |
3 yd 2.7 m |
| 60 in | 2-1/8 yd 1.9 m |
2-3/8 yd 2.2 m |
| Full Skirt Facings, Fabric and Interfacing (15, 16, 17) | ||
| 45 in | 1-1/2 yd 1.4 m |
1-1/2 yd 1.4 m |
| 60 in | 3/4 yd 0.7 m |
3/4 yd 0.7 m |
| Peplum, Fabric (28, 29, 30, 31) | ||
| 45 in | 3/4 yd 0.7 m |
1 yd 0.9 m |
| 60 in | 3/4 yd 0.7 m |
3/4 yd 0.7 m |
| Peplum Facing, Fabric and Interfacing (32) | ||
| 45 in and 60 in | 1 yd 0.9 m |
1 yd 0.9 m |
Sizing Info and Finished Garment Measurements
The Princess Coat is currently available in Charm Sizes 2-20, but we are working to expand the pattern into our 18-34 size range. The 18-34 version of the pattern should be released in fall 2026.
Not sure which size range to choose? Learn about our two size ranges here.
Sizes 2-20
| Size | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 |
| High Bust | 29 in | 31 in | 33 in | 35 in | 37 in | 39 in | 41 in | 43 in | 45 in | 47 in |
| 73.7 cm | 78.7 cm | 83.8 cm | 88.9 cm | 94 cm | 99 cm | 104.1 cm | 109.2 cm | 114.3 cm | 119.4 cm | |
| Bust A cup | 30.5 in | 32.5 in | 34.5 in | 36.5 in | 38.5 in | 40.5 in | 42.5 in | 44.5 in | 46.5 in | 48.5 in |
| 77.5 cm | 82.5 cm | 87.6 cm | 92.7 cm | 97.8 cm | 102.9 cm | 107.9 cm | 113 cm | 118.1 cm | 123.1 cm | |
| Bust B/C cup | 31 in | 33 in | 35 in | 37 in | 39 in | 41 in | 43 in | 45 in | 47 in | 49 in |
| 78.7 cm | 83.8 cm | 88.9 cm | 94 cm | 99 cm | 104.1 cm | 109.2 cm | 114.3 cm | 119.4 cm | 124.4 cm | |
| Bust D/DD cup | 32 in | 34 in | 36 in | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in | 44 in | 46 in | 48 in | 50 in |
| 81.3 cm | 86.4 cm | 91.4 cm | 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | 111.8 cm | 116.8 cm | 121.9 cm | 127 cm | |
| Bust F/G cup | 33 in | 35 in | 37 in | 39 in | 41 in | 43 in | 45 in | 47 in | 49 in | 51 in |
| 83.8 cm | 88.9 cm | 94 cm | 99 cm | 104.1 cm | 109.2 cm | 114.3 cm | 119.4 cm | 124.4 cm | 129.5 cm | |
| Bust H cup | 34 in | 36 in | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in | 44 in | 46 in | 48 in | 50 in | 52 in |
| 86.4 cm | 91.4 cm | 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | 111.8 cm | 116.8 cm | 121.9 cm | 127 cm | 132 cm | |
| Waist | 24 in | 26 in | 28 in | 30 in | 32 in | 34 in | 36 in | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in |
| 61 cm | 66 cm | 71.1 cm | 76.2 cm | 81.3 cm | 86.4 cm | 91.4 cm | 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | |
| Hips | 36 in | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in | 44 in | 46 in | 48 in | 50 in | 52 in | 54 in |
| 91.4 cm | 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | 111.8 cm | 116.8 cm | 121.9 cm | 127 cm | 132 cm | 137.1 cm |
| Size | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 |
| Bust A cup | 34.5 in | 36.5 in | 38.5 in | 40.5 in | 42.5 in | 44.5 in | 46.5 in | 48.5 in | 50.5 in | 52.5 in |
| 87.6 cm | 92.7 cm | 97.8 cm | 102.9 cm | 107.9 cm | 113 cm | 118.1 cm | 123.1 cm | 128.3 cm | 133.4 cm | |
| Bust B/C cup | 35 in | 37 in | 39 in | 41 in | 43 in | 45 in | 47 in | 49 in | 51 in | 53 in |
| 88.9 cm | 94 cm | 99 cm | 104.1 cm | 109.2 cm | 114.3 cm | 119.4 cm | 124.5 cm | 129.5 cm | 134.6 cm | |
| Bust D/DD cup | 36 in | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in | 44 in | 46 in | 48 in | 50 in | 52 in | 54 in |
| 91.4 cm | 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | 111.8 cm | 116.8 cm | 121.9 cm | 127 cm | 132 cm | 137.2 cm | |
| Bust F/G cup | 37 in | 39 in | 41 in | 43 in | 45 in | 47 in | 49 in | 51 in | 53 in | 55 in |
| 94 cm | 99 cm | 104.1 cm | 109.2 cm | 114.3 cm | 119.4 cm | 124.5 cm | 129.5 cm | 134.6 cm | 139.7 cm | |
| Bust H cup | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in | 44 in | 46 in | 48 in | 50 in | 52 in | 54 in | 56 in |
| 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | 111.8 cm | 116.8 cm | 121.9 cm | 127 cm | 132 cm | 137.2 cm | 142.2 cm | |
| Waist | 28 in | 30 in | 32 in | 34 in | 36 in | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in | 44 in | 46 in |
| 71.1 cm | 76.2 cm | 81.3 cm | 86.4 cm | 91.4 cm | 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | 111.8 cm | 116.8 cm |
* Skirt sweep is 155 in (393.7 cm) and the finished length of the skirt (measured at center back from the waistline to the hem) is 28 in (71.1 cm).
Is This Pattern Beginner-Friendly?
This pattern was written with advanced beginners in mind, with clear explanations, simple illustrations, and a sew-along video.
While I wouldn’t recommend this pattern as your very first sewing project, this pattern is a great choice for your very first tailored coat project. The most challenging part of the coat is sewing the bound buttonholes, but they are optional. You can use any other buttonhole technique or even snaps, if you wish.
The companion step-by-step sew-along video is available on YouTube. In the video, I sew a cropped Princess Coat jacket with a faux fur collar.
Measure yourself around your upper bust (under your armpits and above your breasts, without a bra on), the fullest part of your bust (while wearing your preferred bra), the smallest part of your waist, and the fullest part of your hips (this is likely around the fullest part of your butt). Make sure to hold the measuring tape snugly and parallel to the ground. Compare your body measurements to the size chart.
Find your upper bust measurement on the size chart to find your garment size, and then scan down the cup sizes in that garment size column to find your cup size. For instance, a 37-inch upper bust will make you a size 10, and a 39-inch full bust means you need a B cup. Don’t worry if your waist doesn’t match the size 10 column’s measurement of 32 inches; you can grade the waist in or out as needed. It is most important to choose a size to fit your upper bust and cup size, as the waist is easier to adjust up or down.
Sewing pattern sizes are very different from ready-to-wear garments and bra sizes, so be sure to work with your measurements when choosing a size. The coat is designed with built-in ease, so please check the finished measurements chart as well as the size chart if you want something more fitted or with more wearing ease.
Charm’s 2-20 size range is designed for a body with an hourglass shape. Our 18-34 size range is designed for a body with less waist definition.
Still not sure which size range to choose? Learn more about our two size ranges here.
If you have never used a PDF pattern before, this short video is full of tips: How to Use A PDF Pattern.
It will show you how to choose which PDF format to use, how to print just your size(s), and how to easily assemble and cut out your pattern pieces.
We offer digital patterns in two formats: letter-sized PDFs to print at home and A0 sized PDFs to print at a copy shop. In the US, we highly recommend printing A0 files with The Plotted Pattern. Outside of the US, these printers have been recommended.
The Rose Dressing Gown is a full-length double-breasted version of the Princess Coat that is perfect for snuggling up at home. The Rose Dressing Gown is available within our sewing membership community, and it uses most of the pattern pieces from the Princess Coat.
The Hooded Raincoat adds a new center front panel and hood to the Princess Coat, so you can stay dry in all sorts of weather. It’s also available within our sewing membership (which starts at only $9/month!).






















































