Meet the Princess Coat! Princess coats from the ’50s are some of the most breathtaking examples of vintage glamour. These dramatic tailored coats had full skirts, nipped waists, beautiful shawl collars, and dazzling oversized sleeves. Made in lush wools and velvets with a range of striking trims and custom-made buttons, the sight of a mid-century princess coat is enchanting to anyone who comes across one. Lilli Ann was the premiere fashion label behind these coats and they are highly collectible today—with sky-high price tags. The good news is that princess coats are both fun and incredibly satisfying to make for yourself, so you don’t have to wait for the perfect vintage piece to come along in your size. Armed with a little tailoring knowledge (which I will guide you through), it’s not out of reach to make this style for yourself. The best part is that you can fit our Princess Coat pattern to your own unique figure, making it a truly custom-fit, bespoke piece of clothing. Our range of sizes 2–20 (plus cup sizes in A–H) make this style truly accessible to anyone with a sewing machine and a little gumption.
Of course, here at Charm Patterns we specialize in pairing vintage glamour with enough options and information to satisfy modern home sewists. That’s why we have options for both jackets and coats in this pattern, with a range of interchangeable sleeves (both slim and tailored or full and flamboyant), collar variations, and even a flared peplum (to get that dramatic Lilli Ann suit silhouette!). Our famous “Choose Your Own Adventure” instructions let you be the mistress of your own sewing destiny by guiding you through the process for your unique design choices.
Charts
Size | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 |
High Bust | 29 in | 31 in | 33 in | 35 in | 37 in | 39 in | 41 in | 43 in | 45 in | 47 in |
73.7 cm | 78.7 cm | 83.8 cm | 88.9 cm | 94 cm | 99 cm | 104.1 cm | 109.2 cm | 114.3 cm | 119.4 cm | |
Bust A cup | 30.5 in | 32.5 in | 34.5 in | 36.5 in | 38.5 in | 40.5 in | 42.5 in | 44.5 in | 46.5 in | 48.5 in |
77.5 cm | 82.5 cm | 87.6 cm | 92.7 cm | 97.8 cm | 102.9 cm | 107.9 cm | 113 cm | 118.1 cm | 123.1 cm | |
Bust B/C cup | 31 in | 33 in | 35 in | 37 in | 39 in | 41 in | 43 in | 45 in | 47 in | 49 in |
78.7 cm | 83.8 cm | 88.9 cm | 94 cm | 99 cm | 104.1 cm | 109.2 cm | 114.3 cm | 119.4 cm | 124.4 cm | |
Bust D/DD cup | 32 in | 34 in | 36 in | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in | 44 in | 46 in | 48 in | 50 in |
81.3 cm | 86.4 cm | 91.4 cm | 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | 111.8 cm | 116.8 cm | 121.9 cm | 127 cm | |
Bust F/G cup | 33 in | 35 in | 37 in | 39 in | 41 in | 43 in | 45 in | 47 in | 49 in | 51 in |
83.8 cm | 88.9 cm | 94 cm | 99 cm | 104.1 cm | 109.2 cm | 114.3 cm | 119.4 cm | 124.4 cm | 129.5 cm | |
Bust H cup | 34 in | 36 in | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in | 44 in | 46 in | 48 in | 50 in | 52 in |
86.4 cm | 91.4 cm | 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | 111.8 cm | 116.8 cm | 121.9 cm | 127 cm | 132 cm | |
Waist | 24 in | 26 in | 28 in | 30 in | 32 in | 34 in | 36 in | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in |
61 cm | 66 cm | 71.1 cm | 76.2 cm | 81.3 cm | 86.4 cm | 91.4 cm | 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | |
Hips | 36 in | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in | 44 in | 46 in | 48 in | 50 in | 52 in | 54 in |
91.4 cm | 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | 111.8 cm | 116.8 cm | 121.9 cm | 127 cm | 132 cm | 137.1 cm |
Piece Name | Sizes 2-10 | Sizes 12-20 |
Bodice (1, 2, 3, 4, 13, 14, 37) | ||
45 in | 1-3/4 yd • 1.6 m | 2 yd • 1.8 m |
60 in | 1-3/8 yd • 1.3 m | 1-1/2 yd • 1.4 m |
Bodice Interfacing (1, 13, 14, 25, 26) | ||
60 in, Sizes 2-20 | 1 yd • .9 m | |
Backstay Muslin (27) | ||
45 in, 60 in, Sizes 2-20 | 1/2 yd • .5 m | |
Bodice Lining (18, 19, 20, 21) | ||
45 in | 1 yd • .9 m | 1 yd • .9 m |
60 in | 5/8 yd • .6 m | 3/4 yd • .7 m |
Bell Sleeve (9, 12) | ||
45 in, 60 in, Sizes 2-20 | 1-1/2 yd • 1.4 m | |
Bell Sleeve Lining (22) | ||
45 in, 60 in, Sizes 2-20 | 1-1/8 yd • 1 m | |
Bell Sleeve Interfacing (12) | ||
60 in, Sizes 2-20 | 3/8 yd • .3 m | |
Lantern Sleeve (9, 10, 11) | ||
45 in, 60 in, Sizes 2-20 | 1-3/4 yd • 1.6 m | |
Lantern Sleeve Lining (22, 10) | ||
45 in, 60 in, Sizes 2-20 | 1-3/4 yd • 1.6 m | |
Lantern Sleeve Interfacing (11) | ||
60 in, Sizes 2-20 | 1/4 yd • .2 m | |
Tailored Sleeve (Long or Three-Quarter) (Use pieces 33 and 34 for fabric, 35 and 36 for lining) |
||
45 in, 60 in, Sizes 2-20 | 3/4 yd • .7 m | |
Full Skirt (5, 6, 7, 8, 15) | ||
45 in | 3-1/4 yd • 3 m | 3-1/2 yd • 3.2 m |
60 in | 2-1/8 yd • 1.9 m | 2-3/8 yd • 2.2 m |
Full Skirt Lining (6, 7, 8, 23, 24) | ||
45 in | 3 yd • 2.7 m | 3 yd • 2.7 m |
60 in | 2-1/8 yd • 1.9 m | 2-3/8 yd • 2.2 m |
Full Skirt Facings, Fabric and Interfacing (15, 16, 17) | ||
45 in, Sizes 2-20 | 1-1/2 yd • 1.4 m | |
60 in, Sizes 2-20 | 3.4 yd • .7 m | |
Peplum (28, 29, 30, 31) | ||
45 in | 3/4 yd • .7 m | 1 yd • .9 m |
60 in | 3/4 yd • .7 m | 3/4 yd • .7 m |
Peplum Facing and Interfacing (32) | ||
45 in, 60 in, Sizes 2-20 | 1 yd • .9 m |
Size | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 |
Bust A | 34.5 in | 36.5 in | 38.5 in | 40.5 in | 42.5 in | 44.5 in | 46.5 in | 48.5 in | 50.5 in | 52.5 in |
87.6 cm | 92.7 cm | 97.8 cm | 102.9 cm | 107.9 cm | 113 cm | 118.1 cm | 123.1 cm | 128.3 cm | 133.4 cm | |
Bust B/C | 35 in | 37 in | 39 in | 41 in | 43 in | 45 in | 47 in | 49 in | 51 in | 53 in |
88.9 cm | 94 cm | 99 cm | 104.1 cm | 109.2 cm | 114.3 cm | 119.4 cm | 124.5 cm | 129.5 cm | 134.6 cm | |
Bust D/DD | 36 in | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in | 44 in | 46 in | 48 in | 50 in | 52 in | 54 in |
91.4 cm | 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | 111.8 cm | 116.8 cm | 121.9 cm | 127 cm | 132 cm | 137.2 cm | |
Bust F/G | 37 in | 39 in | 41 in | 43 in | 45 in | 47 in | 49 in | 51 in | 53 in | 55 in |
94 cm | 99 cm | 104.1 cm | 109.2 cm | 114.3 cm | 119.4 cm | 124.5 cm | 129.5 cm | 134.6 cm | 139.7 cm | |
Bust H | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in | 44 in | 46 in | 48 in | 50 in | 52 in | 54 in | 56 in |
96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | 111.8 cm | 116.8 cm | 121.9 cm | 127 cm | 132 cm | 137.2 cm | 142.2 cm | |
Waist | 28 in | 30 in | 32 in | 34 in | 36 in | 38 in | 40 in | 42 in | 44 in | 46 in |
71.1 cm | 76.2 cm | 81.3 cm | 86.4 cm | 91.4 cm | 96.5 cm | 101.6 cm | 106.7 cm | 111.8 cm | 116.8 cm |
* Skirt sweep for size 8 is 155 in (393.7 cm); finished length is 28 in (71.1 cm).
Fabric Notes
For cold weather outerwear: Medium- to heavy-weight wool and wool blend coating and suiting fabrics, melton wool, boiled wool, boucle, wool flannel, tweed, double crepe.
For warmer weather versions: medium-weight silks and cottons like sateen, satin, twill, brocade, dupioni, denim, corduroy.
For rainwear: laminated cottons and waterproof rainwear fabrics.
For the lining: light- to medium-weight silks and lining fabrics.
Interfacing: weft insertion or light- to medium-weight woven fusible interfacing
Supplies
- Coat fabric (see yardage chart in pattern)
- Lining fabric (see yardage chart in pattern)
- Interfacing (see yardage chart in pattern)
- 1/2 yard (.5 meter) muslin
- Scrap of silk organza (optional, to finish bound buttonholes)
- Thread to match fabric
- 3 1-1/8in (28.575 mm) buttons or snaps