Since we still have a gallon of fake blood in the studio (from the 2022 Halloween Extravaganza with Bloody Mary), this somehow led us down a rabbit hole where we ended up creating a many-layered Marie Antoinette costume. 

And with Jacky Sanger working with us in the studio this summer, we were able to make this costume (relatively!) historically accurate. Of course, I doubt Marie would have appreciated the cocktail-length skirt or all of the attempts to photoshop my head into a basket, but we tried! 

If you want to recreate a similar 18th century costume, you’ll need all of these layers:

1. A three-layer Charm Foundations Petticoat in silk organza. We affectionately call ours the Sea Monster.
2. Another chiffon petticoat. Ours is from Malco Mode, but any will do. You want LOTS of fluff!
3. A muslin circle skirt to smooth out the petticoat layers. Since this is a costume, we didn’t even bother to hem it!
4. A custom-made bum roll. We made ours from muslin and polyfill, with grosgrain ribbon for a waist tape. This is a bit like a padded donut belt, with all of the padding at the hips and back. (You might be able to hack something together with heavily stuffed fanny packs, but don’t tell Jacky that I suggested something so historically inappropriate!)
5. A pleated and gathered Liz skirt in pink silk satin. We made ours in a long cocktail length, but you could also make it go to the floor. When hemming, don’t forget the added complication of the bum roll. 
6. The bodice with attached overskirt.

The bodice is a heavily hacked Maria Dress bodice, with a squared neckline, basque waist, and center front closure. 

The sleeves started as the Maria sleeves, but then Jacky taught us how to create a single-seamed, historically accurate fitted sleeve with a layered cuff. She then hand-tacked Alençon lace motifs to flocked tulle to create the perfect oval ruffle as a bit of decorative trim. If you want to see every crazy step of how they were done, check out charmpatterns.com/marie-antoinette-sleeve.

We then added even more frosting with more lace at the neckline, fork-pleated trim along the princess seams, and graduated bows tacked at center front. 

The overskirt is a simple pleated rectangle, attached to the bodice starting at the front princess seam. Then we tucked the front corners of the skirt into the side seam at the waist and stuffed the folded skirt hem with lots of tulle to create even more floof. It looks like magic, but it is very easy to do!

Resources

• The sleeve from the Maria Dress pattern
• The usual pattern drafting paper, rulers, tape, markers, and supplies
• Gumption!

Pattern Drafting for the Sleeve Pattern Pieces

1. Make the Maria three-quarter sleeve, as the pattern requires. Try it on and pinch out where the elbow bends (on the front of the sleeve, not the seam). Make any other necessary fit adjustments, and pinch out any extra ease. This is a very fitted style.
2. Remove the seam allowance from the vertical sleeve seams. Mark 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) down from the underarm, then draw a straight line connecting the underarm points. This marks the bicep line. Take a measurement of the bicep line, and write it someplace safe.
3. Mark the sewline at the front armhole notch (5/8 inch or 1.5 cm from the armscye edge). Draw a line through this point parallel to the front sleeve seam. This will be the new (single) vertical sleeve seam. It is VERY forward of modern sleeves, as you can see in the image above.
4. Cut along the new seam line. Tape together the other vertical seams so you have one sleeve pattern piece. Mark a notch on the sleeve cap at the original sleeve seam line (this will help when sewing it to the bodice). Transfer any of the fit adjustments from Step One to the sleeve pattern.
5. Transfer the location and amount of elbow pinch on the original sleeve seam and on both sides of the new sleeve seam. Connect the points as shown in the drawing below. Cut along these lines and pivot so they meet, then tape. Add paper behind the gap at the sleeve hem and tape. When sewing, this triangle at the hem will be a dart, so mark it as usual for darts.
6. Redraw the new vertical sleeve seams into a smooth curve. Add back the seam allowances for the vertical seam. Mark a notch on each vertical seam where the elbow excess was pinched out; this will help match the sleeve sides when you sew them together.
7. Roll the paper sleeve together into a tube to line up the sleeve seams, and make sure the curves are the same. The sleeve will want to twist; this is expected. If the curves are not the same, adjust as needed.
8. True the sleeve cap and sleeve hem.
9. Measure the new bicep line; it is perpendicular to the grainline and passes through the underarm sew line. It’s likely shorter than your previous bicep measurement. Draw two slash lines between the shoulder notch and double back notch, parallel to the sleeve grainline.
10. Slash and spread until your bicep measurement is correct. The pattern at the sleeve hem should hinge; you are adding only to the sleeve cap. Tape down to new pattern paper underneath. Draw new bicep and grainlines. True the hem and sleeve cap. When sewing, you’ll gather between the sleeve notches before attaching the sleeve to the bodice.
11. Be sure to make a muslin to test the new sleeve!

Inspired by the 1960 “Solo in the Spotlight” design created for our favorite blonde collectible, this sparkly dress combines the basic Jewel Neck Top and Pencil Skirt patterns into one glamorous garment.

Resources

• Sequin knit fabric with 50–70% two-way stretch 
• Knit lining fabric with the same stretch percentage as the sequin knit fabric. We recommend knit jersey that will be soft against the skin.
• Stretch illusion mesh fabric with 50–70% two-way stretch
• Stiff tulle fabric
• Thread to match
• ¼”-wide (6 mm) clear elastic to stabilize shoulders and waistline

Pattern Pieces Needed

• Self-drafted Illusion Yoke Front (cut 1 illusion mesh on fold)
• Self-drafted Illusion Yoke Back (cut 2 illusion mesh)
• Self-drafted Illusion Bodice Front (cut 1 sequin knit on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Self-drafted Illusion Bodice Back (cut 1 sequin knit on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Self-drafted Pegged Skirt Front (cut 1 fabric on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Self-drafted Pegged Skirt Back (cut 1 fabric on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Self-drafted Tulle Flounce (cut 3 tulle)

Pattern Drafting for the “Hack” Self-drafted Pattern Pieces

Illusion Bodice Pattern Drafting Instructions

1. Prepare bodice for skirt attachment. Cut the Jewel Neck Top Front and Back pattern pieces at the waistline. Add seam allowances below the cut waistline. 
2. Remove armhole seam allowance. On the top front, draw a line ⅝” (1.5 cm) in from the armscye to remove the seam allowances. Cut away the seam allowances. Repeat on the top back.
3. Determine illusion yoke placement. Hold up the top front pattern piece to your body or a dress form to determine where you would like the mesh yoke and sequin fabric to meet to create the illusion of a strapless bodice. Draw this line onto the pattern piece. For Susie’s dress, we started the line at the underarm and curved up to a point 9¾” (24.8 cm) above the waist at center front (CF). Repeat for the top back, drawing a straight line from the bottom of the armscye to the center back (CB), perpendicular to the CB line. Add notches along each line about 2” (5 cm) in from the armscye to help with alignment. Cut along each line to create separate yoke and bodice pieces.
4. Draft front yoke. Trace the new yoke pattern piece. Add seam allowances to the armhole and lower edge. Label as Illusion Yoke Front, cut 1 illusion mesh on fold, maintaining the original direction-of-greatest-stretch (DOGS). 
5. Draft back yoke. Repeat the previous step to create the yoke back. Add seam allowances at the CB. Label as Illusion Yoke Back, cut 2 illusion mesh, maintaining the original DOGS .
6. Draft the illusion bodice. Trace the bodice pattern piece. Draw a gentle curve from the underarm seam to the added notch. This will fill in the bodice and help to create the illusion of a strapless dress. Add seam allowances to the upper edge of the bodice. Label as Illusion Bodice Front, cut 1 sequin knit on fold and 1 lining on fold, maintaining the original DOGS. Repeat to create the Illusion Bodice Back, truing the sharp corner into a gentle curve instead of filling in the bodice.

Pegged Skirt with Tulle Flounce Pattern Drafting Instructions

1. Draft the pegged skirt. On the Pencil Skirt Front, draw a line 2” (5 cm) up from the hem to shorten the skirt. Mark 1¾” (4.4 cm) in from the side seam at the new hem. Draw a straight line to connect this mark to the hip notch. Trace a new pattern piece. Label as Pegged Skirt Front, cut 1 fabric on fold and 1 lining on fold, maintaining the original DOGS. Repeat using the Skirt Back to create the Pegged Skirt Back.
2. Draft the skirt flounce. Draw a rectangle 15” (38.1 cm) wide (or your desired length) by twice the pegged skirt hem circumference long. Add seam allowances to all four sides (G). Label as Tulle Flounce, cut 3 tulle, with the grainline parallel to the long edge.

Sewing Instructions

1. Cut out the pattern pieces and transfer pattern markings to the wrong side (WS) of the fabric. Before removing the pattern paper, make a notch at the CF and CB of the bodice neckline and waist. Make a notch at the CF and CB of the skirt waist. These notches will help align the skirt and lining.
2. Stitch the yoke front to the yoke back at the shoulder seams with a ⅝” (1.5 cm) seam allowance, right sides (RS) together. Sew again at ½” (1.3 cm). Trim the excess seam allowance, being careful not to cut into your stitches. Press the shoulder seams to the yoke back.
3. Cut a long length of illusion mesh 1¼” (3.2 cm) wide for binding. Stitch the binding to the yoke CB opening, RS together, with a straight stitch. Trim SA to ⅛” (3 mm). Fold binding over the SA, wrapping tightly, so the raw edge of the binding just covers the sewn seam. Stitch in the ditch with a straight stitch, from the RS of the yoke, to secure. Repeat to bind the yoke neckline and armscyes.
4. Sew the bust dart (busts F–H only) and press the dart down.
5. Stitch the bodice front to the bodice back at the side seams, RS together. Repeat for the bodice lining.
6. Baste the sequin bodice to the yoke front, RS together, matching notches. Repeat to baste the yoke back, aligning the yoke CB opening to the bodice CB notch.
7. Stitch the sequin bodice to the bodice lining, RS together (with the yoke sandwiched between), along the entire upper edge. Grade seam allowances and understitch. Baste the bodice to the lining at the waistline, WS together.
8. Sew the skirt front to the skirt back at the side seams, RS together. Repeat for the lining. 
9. Hem the skirt lining with a ⅝” seam allowance.
10. Create three rings of tulle. Gather one raw edge of each length of tulle. Baste together as one along the gathered edge.
11. Stitch tulle to sequin skirt lower raw edge, RS together, aligning the tulle seam to one side seam and adjusting gathers as needed. Trim seam allowances and press towards the skirt. The tulle will not stretch, so you may wish to leave approximately 6” (15.2 cm) unsewn at the CB to make sure you can get the dress over your head. Use small hooks and eyes to attach the loose tulle to the dress.
12. Baste the skirt to the skirt lining at the waistline, WS together. Stitch the bodice to the skirt at the waistline, RS together, matching notches and side seams, and stitching clear elastic along the waistline as you sew. Hold the elastic taut but do not stretch. Trim seam allowances and press towards the bodice.

This tutorial from Rachel Petterson, aka Pigs In Pajamas, will show you how to easily transform (almost) any skirt or dress–including one you’ve already made–by adding a removable, twinkling LED underskirt!

For a very detailed tutorial (and even more stunning photos of Rachel’s Festival of Lights skirt!), check out her video on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JmbCMHjQcw

Resources

• Twill tape or bias binding, slightly longer than your waist measurement
• At least 9 pairs of hooks and eyes
• LED fairy lights with a battery pack
• Fabric glue like e6000 Fabric Fuse (optional)
• In addition to the supplies listed above, you’ll also want a skirt or dress already completed.

LED Light-Up Skirt Tutorial

For the example dress, the Maria Dress bodice is paired with the free Charm Circle Skirt. The underskirt is the Stanwyck Skirt, which is also a full circle skirt. When selecting your underskirt pattern, you can use the same shape as your outer skirt (e.g., circle skirt with circle skirt) or you can go smaller (e.g., A-line under circle skirt), but larger (e.g., circle skirt under an A-line) is not recommended.

While this tutorial will work for most skirts and dresses, it does require the outer fabric to have at least some translucency in order to see the lights. Most quilting cottons will work, but mesh fabrics with embellishments like sequins or beads to catch and reflect the LED light are ideal. 

The underskirt fabric should be a medium weight stable fabric like quilting cotton in a color that complements your outer skirt fabric (e.g., black for a dark skirt, white for a light skirt). The underskirt will need to support the weight of the lights and batteries.

Sew the underskirt: follow the instructions for your chosen underskirt, shortening the hem by 2 inches (5.1 cm) and omitting the waistband/facing and zipper. Be sure to keep the zipper opening unsewn. Staystitch the waistline edge, then finish the waistline edge with twill tape or bias binding. 

Add hooks-and-eyes to waistline edge: handstitch hooks to the waistline edge of the underskirt at each side seam, at center front, at either side of the center back zipper, and midway between each location. Add more hooks if you’d like more support for the weight of the underskirt. Handstitch eyes to the outer skirt’s lining, as close to the waistline seam as possible, matching each hook’s location. If your outer skirt doesn’t have a lining, place the eyes on the wrong side of the skirt at the waistline edge (usually the lower edge of the waistband).

Create a pocket for the battery pack(s): cut a 5-inch by 5-inch (12.7 cm x 12.7 cm) square of underskirt fabric. Finish the upper edge, if desired. Stitch the pocket to the right side of the underskirt side seam, at hip height.

Design your LED placement: this is the fun part! Place the battery pack into the pocket and arrange the strands of lights so that they are distributed around the skirt. Make sure the wire doesn’t have any sharp bends or kinks, and make sure it doesn’t cross the zipper opening. 

Attach your LED lights: using fabric glue (which is faster) or handstitching (which allows for more flexibility), attach each LED light to the underskirt. For more security, sew down each wire by hand with long running stitches. TIP: although fairy light LEDs appear to give off light in any direction, there is actually a brighter side—the side that the wire isn’t crossing over. Be sure to have the brighter side up when attaching the string of lights.

Wear your skirt and take a twirl: slip the underskirt between the outer skirt and lining (or to the wrong side of the outer skirt if there is no lining) and attach the hooks to the eyes. Turn on the battery pack and shine like the star you are!

But first, some inspiration! Vampira (played by Maila Nurmi) was a character in a tv show, The Vampira Show, that ran for one year (1954-1955) and was only broadcast to the Los Angeles area. It has become a cult classic and influenced many of the “spooky” shows and characters we love today. Here’s a few of my favorite looks:

While I’ll never achieve that hip-to-waist ratio (!), the lines of her gowns are so similar to the Lorelei Gown that I knew it would make the perfect pattern hack for Halloween.

Resources

• Lorelei Gown pattern
• Black knit leather-look fabric (I’m obsessed! It feels and sews like a ponte knit, but looks SO glam.)
• Power net, lining, thread, a long invisible zipper, and everything else in the Lorelei instructions
• 24-inch-long black fringe
• Rhinestones from our stash (there’s tons available on Etsy)
• Long black wig and as much black eyebrow pencil as you can handle

Vampira Gown Pattern Alterations

1. Draw the seam allowances on the Lorelei Gown Bodice Front Insert (2) pattern piece. Fold the Bodice Front Insert in half lengthwise, as you will be cutting the front bodice on the fold. Measure the neckline edge of the pattern piece (not including the seam allowances!) from the folded edge to the long raw edge. This measurement will be short, around an inch or so.
2. Tape tracing paper to the Bodice Front (1) pattern piece at the center front. Draw a line from the upper CF circle away from the pattern piece, roughly perpendicular to the grainline, equal in length as your measurement in Step One. Draw a line from the lower CF circle to the waistline, parallel to the grainline. Draw a line to connect the two points to create your new center line; connect the end of the first short line to the point where the second line crosses the waistline. This will be your new center front and will be cut on the fold. Draw the “cut on the fold” arrows and scribble out the original grainline.
3. Using a French curve, draw in a new neckline, in any shape you wish. My neckline comes to a deep V point just below the level of my apex, and curves up to the shoulder (about 2 inches or 5 cm away from the armscye edge). Sometimes, I like to pin the pattern piece to my dress form just to help me visualize everything. After you’re happy with the way your neckline looks, add 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance, then cut out and label the pattern piece.
4. Measure the distance of the shoulder edge of your new bodice front, without seam allowance. On the Bodice Back (3) pattern piece, draw a line from the armscye edge along the shoulder equal to this distance (without seam allowances). This will make sure the front and back meets perfectly across the shoulder seam. Draw a long from this mark to the center back seam, to create the new back neckline. I drew a curved line using a large French curve, mimicking the original neckline. Once you’re happy with your back neckline, add 5/8 inch seam allowance, then cut out the pattern piece, truing the neckline dart as needed. Label the pattern piece.
5. It’s a bit hard to tell because of the shaggy cut fabric, but the bicep area of the sleeve remains the same as the Lorelei Gown, and ease is added from the elbow to the wrist to create a bell shape. For the sleeves, draw a line perpendicular to the grainline on the Sleeve (4) pattern piece, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the notches. Draw five lines, about 1 inch apart, parallel to the sleeve centerline from this line to the wrist edge. Slash and spread these five parallel lines to create a bell shape, then tape to a new piece of pattern paper and true the hem edge. You can go as dramatic as you’d like; my sleeve hem ended up being almost a half circle! Cut and label the new pattern piece.

Vampira Gown Sewing Instructions

Follow the Lorelei Gown sewing instructions to create the bodice, cutting the new Bodice Front on the fold in fabric, lining, and power net. Ignore all references to the Bodice Front Insert.

Before inserting the sleeves, try on the bodice and adjust the front waist and bust darts as needed. Some of the bust shaping of the original pattern was provided by the bodice front insert, so you may need to pinch out additional fabric to create a perfect fit. Adjust as needed.

For the sleeves, omit the lining. Sew as usual, then insert into the bodice.

Follow the rest of the instructions to complete the gown (with the panty).

After construction, sew the long fringe around the entire hem, all the way up to the tip of the thigh slit. Use scissors to cut ragged edges on the sleeve hem all the way up to the elbows. Hand sew rhinestones to the sleeves and bodice as desired. Then throw on a black wig and your bra with the most oomph, draw on some dramatic pointed eyebrows, and get ready to scare the neighborhood children!

Let’s start with some inspiration. Dolly wore so many jumpsuits with big bell bottoms back in the 1970s! More images and inspiration can be found here.

So amazing! This jumpsuit hack combines the Lorelei Gown bodice with the Dolly Bell Bottoms, with added trim and just a tiny bit of pattern hacking to eliminate the center front V panel on the bodice.

Resources

• Lorelei Gown pattern
• Dolly Bell Bottoms pattern
• Black ponte knit fabric
• Power net, lining, thread, and a long invisible zipper (as in the Lorelei instructions)
• Rhinestone trim (similar)
• Black fringe with shiny sequins
• Black cowboy hat, big hair, a large spider brooch, and lots of rhinestone jewelry

Dolly Jumpsuit Pattern Alterations

1. Draw the seam allowances on the Lorelei Gown Bodice Front Insert (2) pattern piece. Fold the Bodice Front Insert in half lengthwise, as you will be cutting the jumpsuit front bodice on the fold. Measure the neckline edge of the pattern piece (not including the seam allowances!) from the folded edge to the long raw edge. This measurement will be short, around an inch or so.
2. Tape tracing paper to the Bodice Front (1) pattern piece at the center front. Draw a line from the upper CF circle away from the pattern piece, roughly perpendicular to the grainline, equal in length to your measurement in Step One. Draw a line from the lower CF circle to the waistline, parallel to the grainline. Draw a line to connect the two points to create your new center line; connect the end of the first short line to the point where the second line crosses the waistline. This will be your new center front and will be cut on the fold. Draw the “cut on the fold” arrows and scribble out the original grainline. You may want to curve the corner of the new neckline so it isn’t so square. Cut out and label your new pattern piece.
3. I wanted to wear tall platform heels to make the bell bottoms really stand out, so I added about 6 inches to the inseam of the pants.

Dolly Jumpsuit Sewing Instructions

Follow the Lorelei Gown sewing instructions to create the bodice, cutting the new Bodice Front on the fold in fabric, lining, and power net. Ignore all references to the Bodice Front Insert.

Before inserting the sleeves, try on the bodice and adjust the front waist and bust darts as needed. Some of the bust shaping of the original pattern was provided by the bodice front insert, so you may need to pinch out additional fabric to create a perfect fit. Resew the darts and/or side seams, as needed.

Before sewing the sleeve seam, baste fringe to the vertical seam (outer fabric only), then sew the sleeves as usual. (All sleeves should have fringe! It’s so fun!)

Ignore the panty and skirt instructions. Instead, follow the Dolly Bell Bottoms instructions to create the pants (without the waistband), attach to the bodice, and insert the zipper.

After construction, try on the jumpsuit and use chalk to mark out the spiderweb lines. Hand stitch rhinestone trim to create the spiderweb decoration, and add a large spider brooch to complete the look.

Claudia lives far away, so we really had to wing it for this one. Here are a few tips we learned while creating her Alice costume:

Choose a Simple Pattern With Fewer Pattern Pieces Children aren’t shaped like small adults. They have different proportions, which means a fitted garment that uses an adult-sized pattern block won’t fit. Avoid patterns with significant shaping at the bust, or with details that emphasize a woman’s curves. For our Alice costume, we started with the Cinch-It Dress, a trapeze dress with a very loose fit, in the smallest size available (size 2, with an A-cup).

Get Out Your Calculator Sizing a pattern up or down requires a bit of math, and you’ll need a few extra measurements. Compare the body measurements to the size chart and the finished measurements listed in the instructions. The Cinch-It Dress has significant ease built into it, so we were most concerned with the fit at the shoulders. Compare the bust measurements between your model and the size chart. In our case, the pattern is 4 inches larger. To find the percentage difference, the math is as follows: (Model’s measurement x100)/ Desired measurement= percent difference. When we plugged in the Cinch-It Dress measurements and Claudia’s measurements, we got a percentage of about 87%, so we found we had to reduce the size 2A pattern pieces by 87%.

Print the Pattern Smaller and Correct the Seam Allowance Print out the pattern pieces using a printer with a custom scale setting set to 87% (or your desired percent difference). Check the test square: it should be .87 of an inch, or just a smidge smaller than 7/8 inch.

Measure your pattern pieces to make sure they will fit your model. The shoulder fit is especially important (for kids as well as adults!).

Before cutting out the pattern pieces, you’ll want to adjust the seam allowances. Our scaled down seam allowance measured just over 1/2 inch, so we added 1/8 inch to the cut line to get our usual 5/8 inch seam allowance. Of course, you could also just sew the garment using smaller seam allowances.

Test the Fit With a Muslin Don’t skip this step! Make a full muslin of the garment, including the collar, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, belt, or whatever other details are included in your pattern. Not only will this help you test the fit of the garment and determine the correct length, it’s also a great tool to make sure the placement and scale of the details are correct.

Complete the Costume The final Cinch-It Dress was sewn in blue cotton, with a white pinafore created by combining the Stanwyck ruffled bib (scaled down to Claudia’s size) with a simple gathered apron that tied at the back. White socks or tights, a pair of black patent shoes, and a black headband will complete the look— but I’ll let her mom worry about that!