This pattern takes the classic halter and crosses the ties to create shoulder straps, with an added shoulder drape for drama. It’s paired with the Side Drape Skirt from the book to create this lovely floral jersey dress.

Resources

• Knit fabric with 50–70% two-way stretch for the dress. Because of the drapey nature of the skirt and shoulder drape, cotton and rayon jersey, synthetic jersey, and lightweight knit rayon blends will work best.
• Lining fabric with identical stretch as the fashion fabric. The bodice can be self-lined.
• Heavyweight power net with 50% two-way stretch
• Thread to match

Pattern Pieces Needed

• Self-drafted Halter Dress Front (cut 2 fabric, 2 lining)
• Self-drafted Halter Dress Back (cut 1 fabric on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Halter Strap (cut 4 fabric)
• Draped Skirt Overlay (cut 1 fabric)
• Draped Skirt Underlay (cut 1 fabric)
• Skirt Back (cut 1 fabric on fold)
• Self-drafted Neckline Slit Facing (cut 2 fabric)
• Self-drafted Shoulder Drape (cut 2 fabric)

Pattern Drafting for the “Hack” Self-drafted Pattern Pieces

The easiest way to draft the front slit and back strap placement is to try on a Halter Top that you’ve already fitted to your body, then mark the desired alterations listed below with safety pins. Transfer these markings to your pattern pieces, making any additional alterations as needed.

1. Prepare bodice for skirt attachment. Cut the Halter Top Front and Back pattern pieces at the waistline. Add seam allowance below the cut waistline. Trace new pattern pieces. Label as Halter Dress Front, cut 2 fabric and 2 lining, or Halter Dress Back, cut 1 fabric on fold and 1 lining on fold, maintaining the original direction-of-greatest-stretch (DOGS) line.
2. Mark neckline slit. Extend the center front (CF) line of the halter top front 2¼” (5.7 cm) past the CF circle. Mark a circle ¼” (6 mm) to the left of the end of the line. This will be the lower edge of the slit opening. Starting at this circle, draw a line 3” (7.6 cm) long, parallel to the halter strap front edge, and mark a circle at the end of the line for the upper edge of the slit opening. The slit opening should be approximately 1½” (3.8 cm) from the halter strap front edge; adjust as needed.
3. Draft neckline slit facing. Draw a rectangle 5” (12.7 cm) long by 2” (5 cm) wide. Draw a 3” (7.6 cm) long line, centered inside the rectangle for the slit opening. Mark each end of the slit opening with a circle. Label as Neckline Slit Facing, cut 2 fabric, with the DOGS running perpendicular to the slit opening.
4. Draft new back halter strap. If you have marked the back strap placement and length adjustments using an existing Halter Top, transfer the strap placement marks to the halter top back and the strap length adjustments to the Halter Strap. Add seam allowances to the modified strap length. Trace new pattern pieces and label as Halter Strap, cut 4 fabric. If you are starting from scratch without an existing Halter Top that fits well, it is easier to skip this step and make the adjustments on the fly while sewing.
5. Draft shoulder drape. Draw a line 40” (1 m) long for the shoulder drape centerline. At one end of the line, draw a line 5” (12.7) long, perpendicular to and centered on the centerline. At the other end of the centerline, draw a line 20” (50.8 cm) long, perpendicular to and centered on the centerline. Connect the corners to create a trapezoid shape. Add seam allowances to all four sides and label as Shoulder Drape, cut 2 fabric, with the DOGS running parallel to the centerline.

Sewing Instructions

1. Cut out the pattern pieces and transfer pattern markings to the wrong side (WS) of the fabric. Before removing the pattern paper, make notches at the neckline and waistline center back (CB) on the top and skirt.
2. Sew the shoulder drape right sides (RS) together along the three longest sides, pivoting at the corners. Trim corners and grade seam allowances. Turn RS out and press flat. Baste the short raw edge and then gather. 
3. Baste the gathered edge of drape to the notched edge of the right halter strap, RS together, evenly distributing gathers. The drape will attach to the right halter strap, but will fall over the left shoulder once the halter straps cross each other.
4. Mark the slit opening and circles on the right halter dress front and right lining front. (The right halter dress front is the side with the shoulder drape attached.) Aligning circles and the marked slit opening, pin one neckline slit facing to each right front, RS together. Stitch a scant ⅛” (3 mm) on either side of the slit opening, using a narrow zigzag stitch, pivoting at circles. Cut the slit open, and trim excess seam allowances. Pull the facing through the slit and press flat, making sure there are no puckers at the corners. 
5. Stitch the halter dress fronts together at the CF seam from circle to hem, RS together. Clip into the seam allowances to the circle, being careful not to clip past your stitches.
6. Gather the top front shoulder. Stitch the halter strap to the halter dress front at the shoulder, RS together, matching notches and circles, evenly distributing gathers, and stitching clear elastic along the seam as you sew. Grade seam allowances. Repeat for the lining, omitting the clear elastic.
7. Stitch the halter dress front to the halter dress back at the side seams, RS together, matching notches. Repeat for the lining. 
8. If you have not already made the strap placement and length adjustments, try on the bodice and mark the strap placement location on the back neckline and shorten the straps as necessary. For mine, I placed my straps 2½” (6.4 cm) in from the side seam and shortened the strap by 5” (12.7 cm). 
9. Stitch the bodice to the lining along the neckline edge, RS together, beginning and ending at the CF circle, pivoting at each strap corner, and leaving an opening for each back strap. The drape will be sandwiched between the fashion fabric and the lining. Be careful not to catch the silicone elastic as you stitch. Grade seam allowances. Understitch the neckline, starting/stopping at each strap as necessary. On the WS of the lining, zigzag stitch clear elastic to the bodice front along the understitched seam allowance, from the side seam to the outer halter strap attachment point and from the CF circle to the inner strap attachment point. Hold the elastic taut, but do not stretch it as you sew.
10. Thread the left (as worn) strap through the slit opening and insert halter straps into the unsewn openings at the back neckline. Stitch the back neckline openings closed, RS together, securing the straps. Turn the garment RS out and baste the bodice to the lining at the waist. Stitch slit opening facings together invisibly by hand.
11. Follow the instructions to sew the Side Drape Skirt, omitting the waistband.
12. Stitch the bodice to the skirt at the waistline, RS together, matching notches and side seams, and stitching clear elastic along the waistline as you sew. Hold the elastic taut but do not stretch. Grade seam allowances and press towards the bodice.

This tutorial from Rachel Petterson, aka Pigs In Pajamas, will show you how to easily transform (almost) any skirt or dress–including one you’ve already made–by adding a removable, twinkling LED underskirt!

For a very detailed tutorial (and even more stunning photos of Rachel’s Festival of Lights skirt!), check out her video on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JmbCMHjQcw

Resources

• Twill tape or bias binding, slightly longer than your waist measurement
• At least 9 pairs of hooks and eyes
• LED fairy lights with a battery pack
• Fabric glue like e6000 Fabric Fuse (optional)
• In addition to the supplies listed above, you’ll also want a skirt or dress already completed.

LED Light-Up Skirt Tutorial

For the example dress, the Maria Dress bodice is paired with the free Charm Circle Skirt. The underskirt is the Stanwyck Skirt, which is also a full circle skirt. When selecting your underskirt pattern, you can use the same shape as your outer skirt (e.g., circle skirt with circle skirt) or you can go smaller (e.g., A-line under circle skirt), but larger (e.g., circle skirt under an A-line) is not recommended.

While this tutorial will work for most skirts and dresses, it does require the outer fabric to have at least some translucency in order to see the lights. Most quilting cottons will work, but mesh fabrics with embellishments like sequins or beads to catch and reflect the LED light are ideal. 

The underskirt fabric should be a medium weight stable fabric like quilting cotton in a color that complements your outer skirt fabric (e.g., black for a dark skirt, white for a light skirt). The underskirt will need to support the weight of the lights and batteries.

Sew the underskirt: follow the instructions for your chosen underskirt, shortening the hem by 2 inches (5.1 cm) and omitting the waistband/facing and zipper. Be sure to keep the zipper opening unsewn. Staystitch the waistline edge, then finish the waistline edge with twill tape or bias binding. 

Add hooks-and-eyes to waistline edge: handstitch hooks to the waistline edge of the underskirt at each side seam, at center front, at either side of the center back zipper, and midway between each location. Add more hooks if you’d like more support for the weight of the underskirt. Handstitch eyes to the outer skirt’s lining, as close to the waistline seam as possible, matching each hook’s location. If your outer skirt doesn’t have a lining, place the eyes on the wrong side of the skirt at the waistline edge (usually the lower edge of the waistband).

Create a pocket for the battery pack(s): cut a 5-inch by 5-inch (12.7 cm x 12.7 cm) square of underskirt fabric. Finish the upper edge, if desired. Stitch the pocket to the right side of the underskirt side seam, at hip height.

Design your LED placement: this is the fun part! Place the battery pack into the pocket and arrange the strands of lights so that they are distributed around the skirt. Make sure the wire doesn’t have any sharp bends or kinks, and make sure it doesn’t cross the zipper opening. 

Attach your LED lights: using fabric glue (which is faster) or handstitching (which allows for more flexibility), attach each LED light to the underskirt. For more security, sew down each wire by hand with long running stitches. TIP: although fairy light LEDs appear to give off light in any direction, there is actually a brighter side—the side that the wire isn’t crossing over. Be sure to have the brighter side up when attaching the string of lights.

Wear your skirt and take a twirl: slip the underskirt between the outer skirt and lining (or to the wrong side of the outer skirt if there is no lining) and attach the hooks to the eyes. Turn on the battery pack and shine like the star you are!

But first, some inspiration! Vampira (played by Maila Nurmi) was a character in a tv show, The Vampira Show, that ran for one year (1954-1955) and was only broadcast to the Los Angeles area. It has become a cult classic and influenced many of the “spooky” shows and characters we love today. Here’s a few of my favorite looks:

While I’ll never achieve that hip-to-waist ratio (!), the lines of her gowns are so similar to the Lorelei Gown that I knew it would make the perfect pattern hack for Halloween.

Resources

• Lorelei Gown pattern
• Black knit leather-look fabric (I’m obsessed! It feels and sews like a ponte knit, but looks SO glam.)
• Power net, lining, thread, a long invisible zipper, and everything else in the Lorelei instructions
• 24-inch-long black fringe
• Rhinestones from our stash (there’s tons available on Etsy)
• Long black wig and as much black eyebrow pencil as you can handle

Vampira Gown Pattern Alterations

1. Draw the seam allowances on the Lorelei Gown Bodice Front Insert (2) pattern piece. Fold the Bodice Front Insert in half lengthwise, as you will be cutting the front bodice on the fold. Measure the neckline edge of the pattern piece (not including the seam allowances!) from the folded edge to the long raw edge. This measurement will be short, around an inch or so.
2. Tape tracing paper to the Bodice Front (1) pattern piece at the center front. Draw a line from the upper CF circle away from the pattern piece, roughly perpendicular to the grainline, equal in length as your measurement in Step One. Draw a line from the lower CF circle to the waistline, parallel to the grainline. Draw a line to connect the two points to create your new center line; connect the end of the first short line to the point where the second line crosses the waistline. This will be your new center front and will be cut on the fold. Draw the “cut on the fold” arrows and scribble out the original grainline.
3. Using a French curve, draw in a new neckline, in any shape you wish. My neckline comes to a deep V point just below the level of my apex, and curves up to the shoulder (about 2 inches or 5 cm away from the armscye edge). Sometimes, I like to pin the pattern piece to my dress form just to help me visualize everything. After you’re happy with the way your neckline looks, add 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance, then cut out and label the pattern piece.
4. Measure the distance of the shoulder edge of your new bodice front, without seam allowance. On the Bodice Back (3) pattern piece, draw a line from the armscye edge along the shoulder equal to this distance (without seam allowances). This will make sure the front and back meets perfectly across the shoulder seam. Draw a long from this mark to the center back seam, to create the new back neckline. I drew a curved line using a large French curve, mimicking the original neckline. Once you’re happy with your back neckline, add 5/8 inch seam allowance, then cut out the pattern piece, truing the neckline dart as needed. Label the pattern piece.
5. It’s a bit hard to tell because of the shaggy cut fabric, but the bicep area of the sleeve remains the same as the Lorelei Gown, and ease is added from the elbow to the wrist to create a bell shape. For the sleeves, draw a line perpendicular to the grainline on the Sleeve (4) pattern piece, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the notches. Draw five lines, about 1 inch apart, parallel to the sleeve centerline from this line to the wrist edge. Slash and spread these five parallel lines to create a bell shape, then tape to a new piece of pattern paper and true the hem edge. You can go as dramatic as you’d like; my sleeve hem ended up being almost a half circle! Cut and label the new pattern piece.

Vampira Gown Sewing Instructions

Follow the Lorelei Gown sewing instructions to create the bodice, cutting the new Bodice Front on the fold in fabric, lining, and power net. Ignore all references to the Bodice Front Insert.

Before inserting the sleeves, try on the bodice and adjust the front waist and bust darts as needed. Some of the bust shaping of the original pattern was provided by the bodice front insert, so you may need to pinch out additional fabric to create a perfect fit. Adjust as needed.

For the sleeves, omit the lining. Sew as usual, then insert into the bodice.

Follow the rest of the instructions to complete the gown (with the panty).

After construction, sew the long fringe around the entire hem, all the way up to the tip of the thigh slit. Use scissors to cut ragged edges on the sleeve hem all the way up to the elbows. Hand sew rhinestones to the sleeves and bodice as desired. Then throw on a black wig and your bra with the most oomph, draw on some dramatic pointed eyebrows, and get ready to scare the neighborhood children!

Let’s start with some inspiration. Dolly wore so many jumpsuits with big bell bottoms back in the 1970s! More images and inspiration can be found here.

So amazing! This jumpsuit hack combines the Lorelei Gown bodice with the Dolly Bell Bottoms, with added trim and just a tiny bit of pattern hacking to eliminate the center front V panel on the bodice.

Resources

• Lorelei Gown pattern
• Dolly Bell Bottoms pattern
• Black ponte knit fabric
• Power net, lining, thread, and a long invisible zipper (as in the Lorelei instructions)
• Rhinestone trim (similar)
• Black fringe with shiny sequins
• Black cowboy hat, big hair, a large spider brooch, and lots of rhinestone jewelry

Dolly Jumpsuit Pattern Alterations

1. Draw the seam allowances on the Lorelei Gown Bodice Front Insert (2) pattern piece. Fold the Bodice Front Insert in half lengthwise, as you will be cutting the jumpsuit front bodice on the fold. Measure the neckline edge of the pattern piece (not including the seam allowances!) from the folded edge to the long raw edge. This measurement will be short, around an inch or so.
2. Tape tracing paper to the Bodice Front (1) pattern piece at the center front. Draw a line from the upper CF circle away from the pattern piece, roughly perpendicular to the grainline, equal in length to your measurement in Step One. Draw a line from the lower CF circle to the waistline, parallel to the grainline. Draw a line to connect the two points to create your new center line; connect the end of the first short line to the point where the second line crosses the waistline. This will be your new center front and will be cut on the fold. Draw the “cut on the fold” arrows and scribble out the original grainline. You may want to curve the corner of the new neckline so it isn’t so square. Cut out and label your new pattern piece.
3. I wanted to wear tall platform heels to make the bell bottoms really stand out, so I added about 6 inches to the inseam of the pants.

Dolly Jumpsuit Sewing Instructions

Follow the Lorelei Gown sewing instructions to create the bodice, cutting the new Bodice Front on the fold in fabric, lining, and power net. Ignore all references to the Bodice Front Insert.

Before inserting the sleeves, try on the bodice and adjust the front waist and bust darts as needed. Some of the bust shaping of the original pattern was provided by the bodice front insert, so you may need to pinch out additional fabric to create a perfect fit. Resew the darts and/or side seams, as needed.

Before sewing the sleeve seam, baste fringe to the vertical seam (outer fabric only), then sew the sleeves as usual. (All sleeves should have fringe! It’s so fun!)

Ignore the panty and skirt instructions. Instead, follow the Dolly Bell Bottoms instructions to create the pants (without the waistband), attach to the bodice, and insert the zipper.

After construction, try on the jumpsuit and use chalk to mark out the spiderweb lines. Hand stitch rhinestone trim to create the spiderweb decoration, and add a large spider brooch to complete the look.

— xoxo, Gertie

This pattern was originally published on Patreon on July 15, 2025.

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Direct link to this pattern ]]> https://charmpatterns.com/niagara-keyhole-bodice-pattern/ Tue, 01 Jul 2025 20:12:49 +0000 https://charmpatterns.com/?p=178799 The Niagara Keyhole Bodice pattern was inspired by the gorgeous pink wiggle dress Marilyn Monroe wore in Niagara (1953), created by costume designer Dorothy Jeakins.

This fully lined bodice has a sexy keyhole opening and a lower, wider, and deeper V-neckline than the Lisa Bodice (released in March). It is meant to be worn off the shoulder, and we’ve included a clever sewing trick to help it stay snug.

Even better, it’s in the Lamour series, so you have more than a dozen different skirts, pants, and shorts to pair it with!
— xoxo, Gertie

This pattern was originally published on Patreon on July 1, 2025.

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Direct link to the accompanying video ]]> https://charmpatterns.com/bathing-beauty-swimsuit-pattern/ Sun, 01 Jun 2025 18:16:52 +0000 https://charmpatterns.com/?p=176563 The Bathing Beauty Bathing Suit is one in a million! Inspired by one of the many gold swimsuits worn by Esther Williams (and by a risqué one in my collection!), this versatile beauty gives you so many options to make it your own.

Create a simple suit with a halter strap, or add a ruched overlay in the same fabric as the bathing suit for a classic vintage-inspired look. Or stun the crowd with a more modern nude-illusion take, with barely-there mesh ruched over a flesh-toned swimsuit.

And, of course, we’ve included an optional inner bra, too, for extra support!

— xoxo, Gertie

This pattern was originally published on Patreon on June 1, 2025.

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Direct link to the accompanying video ]]> https://charmpatterns.com/anni-bodice-pattern/ Wed, 28 May 2025 18:08:47 +0000 https://charmpatterns.com/?p=176229 This pattern first started when we hacked the Aurora Bodice to have a square neckline for the Ingrid Skirt photo shoot, in homage to the polka dot dress that Joan Crawford wore in The Bride Wore Red (1937).

I fell in love with this style and kept refining the design, resulting in the Anni Bodice (named after Joan’s character in the movie).

This fully-lined, double-darted bodice showcases a square neckline and features two sleeve lengths (but it can be made sleeveless as well!). Paired with any of the Stanwyck-series skirts, it’s perfect as a day dress for all seasons. I can’t wait to see what you make!

— xoxo, Gertie

This pattern was originally published on Patreon on May 28, 2025.

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Direct link to this pattern ]]> https://charmpatterns.com/elizabeth-caftan-pattern/ Thu, 01 May 2025 14:53:03 +0000 https://charmpatterns.com/?p=170068 Nothing says confidence and sophistication more than the Elizabeth Caftan, inspired by the legendary Elizabeth Taylor. With a shaped front fit for a goddess and an elastic interior belt, you’ll be able to flounce (or lounge) in both comfort and style. 

The shorter caftan makes a perfect summer poolside coverup, and the longer version can be a stunning evening gown in silk or a dramatic day dress in rayon challis or cotton lawn.

— xoxo, Gertie

This pattern was originally published on Patreon on May 1, 2025.

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Direct link to the accompanying video ]]> https://charmpatterns.com/pride-caftan/ Thu, 01 May 2025 14:30:40 +0000 https://charmpatterns.com/?p=169674 This unisex, one-size-fits-most caftan is a special gift to our patrons to celebrate Pride month, and it’s such an easy garment to sew you’ll be able to whip it up in no time. While it may only have a few pattern pieces, it oozes style and glamour!

The Pride Caftan comes in two lengths, with or without a dramatic thigh slit. The simple design is perfect for showcasing border prints, lace, chiffons, and other wild fabrics.

Whether you’re looking for a beach coverup or a luxurious (and comfortable!) evening gown, this pattern is for you.

We’ve also created a Pride Collection of fabric on Spoonflower for the occasion! If you’d like to create a long caftan (like Andresa and Gertie) in the Pride Flag Rays or Trans Flag Rays designs, you’ll want to purchase 4 yards of the “long panel 54″x72″ (mirrored)” fabric. For a short caftan, you’ll want 2 yards of the “short panel 54″x36″ (mirrored)”.

— xoxo, Gertie

This pattern was originally published on Patreon on May 1, 2025.

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