Resources

• Black Silk Dupioni (hat exterior)
• Green Silk Dupioni (bias band and bow)
• Black Felt (hat underlining and lining). We used wool felt from our stash, but any craft felt will do as well! 
• Buckram
• Millinery Wire
• Silamide Thread
• Millinery elastic 

Step-by-Step Instructions

Create the pattern pieces

Work out the pattern pieces on paper first, and try them on your head to make sure you like the size and shape. Instead of working with pre-determined measurements, we found it easiest (and more fun!) to play around with paper shapes and try them on as we were working.

• Create a circle for the Hat Brim. We made ours 18 inches across with a 6″ diameter center hole. Add a seam allowance to the pattern to the inner circumference of the center hole.
• Create the Hat Cone pattern by rolling pattern paper into a cone of your desired height (we made ours 15″ tall) until the lower opening of the cone is the right size to fit the center hole. Connect the two long side edges with a lower curved edge. It should look like a slice of pie!
• Once you have your pattern pieces, remember to add seam allowances to all edges.

Cut the following: 

• 2 buckram, 2 felt for the brim (remove the seam allowance along outer circumference)
• 2 black dupioni for the brim 
• 1 black dupioni, 1 buckram, 1 felt for the cone. *Cut the black dupioni 2 inches longer at the lower edge than the buckram and felt.
• 1 length green dupioni measuring approximately 5 inches wide by 2 yards long, cut on the bias, for the bias band and bow. Piece together if needed.

Sewing the Hat

• After removing the outer circumference seam allowance, baste the two buckram brims together using a zigzag stitch. Clip the crown inner seam allowance all the way to the stitch line.
• Using a zigzag stitch, sew the millinery wire to the outer circumference of the buckram brim, right at the edge.

• Overlap the long seam of the buckram cone, making sure to fade to a point at the top. Stitch by hand using silamide thread. 

• Baste felt onto top and bottom of buckram brim, sandwiching the buckram inside. This will cushion the outer fabric, preventing the buckram texture from showing through. 

• Pin black dupioni brims RS together and stitch along the outer circumference. Trim outer seam allowance and turn RS out. Press. Clip into crown seam allowance every ½ inch.

• Roll up the buckram-and-felt brim and insert it between the layers of dupioni (this takes a little finessing!). Wiggle it to make sure it is sitting flat. Tack the dupioni to the buckram clips to secure.

• Underline cone: baste black dupioni cone to one felt cone, so the felt is an underlining for the dupioni.
• Sew cone seam: pin underlined cone RS together along the long edge. Stitch, fading to as little seam allowance as possible at the point. Press open the seam allowance. Repeat for the remaining black felt cone.

• Turn the black dupioni cone RS out. Place buckram cone inside dupioni cone and stitch through all layers by hand with silamide thread at lower edge.

• Attach the cone to the brim: turn any excess fabric at the base of the cone to the inside of the cone. Fold up clipped tabs on inner brim and place cone on top of brim. Stitch through all layers with silamide thread, stitching around the base of the cone and attaching it to the clipped tabs. Go around twice if necessary to secure brim to cone. 

• Place black felt cone inside buckram cone as a lining.
• Make the tie: Fold green dupioni in half lengthwise, RS together, and stitch along long edge. Trim seam allowance and turn RS out. Press. Cut off 6 inches of the bias tie and set aside to be used for the knot.
• Create the center “knot:” Pin green dupioni tie around base of cone, crossing at the base with ends hanging off. Pin the 6 inch green dupioni tab in place to cover the point where the band crosses. Stitch by hand into place. Trim ends of green dupioni band on an angle at the desired length.
• Sew elastic into hat: hand stitch ends of elastic to inside of hat.

Enjoy your beautiful new witch hat!

Follow along with our step-by-step tutorial on how to create your very own set of fun pompoms.

Supplies & Materials

• 2 inch wide nylon chiffon strips, approximately 6 yards long. (If you use 104-in wide fabric, this is only two strips). Use one color for both strips, or mix it up and use two different colors for a whimsical effect. 
• 2 inch wide nylon chiffon strip for the center tie, approximately 12 inches long.
• Cardboard and scissors

Please follow along with this video to create your very own pompoms!

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A post shared by Gretchen “Gertie” Hirsch (@gertie18)

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Cut two cardboard pieces into C-shapes. The larger the C, the larger the pompom. We cut ours about 5 inches across, with an inside diameter of about 2 inches. Err on the side of going too big; you can always trim it down using scissors.
2. Use a binder clip to hold the C-shapes together, sandwiching the shorter nylon strip inside the curve of the C with the tails hanging out at each end. This will be used as the center tie for your pompom.
3. Wrap the long nylon strips around the C securely, but do not stretch them. Evenly wrap the C with multiple passes. 
4. Once all of the long nylon strips are wrapped, tie the ends of the center tie loosely but do not tie a knot. 
5. Holding it against a hard surface, use sharp scissors to cut the wrapped nylon, cutting in between the two cardboard layers. Keep constant pressure on the strands.
6. Once all strands have been cut, tie the center tie very tightly and create a knot to secure. Leave the ends long so you can find the center and attach it to your project.
7. Use very sharp scissors to trim the nylon pompom strands into a ball, being careful not to cut your ties.

Sew the pompoms to your robe ties or on to another garment or craft project. The sky’s the limit when it comes to these pompoms!

Supplies:

• One yard cording
• Small scrap of leather or suede (I used this leather trim pack)

Instructions: 

1. Trace smile pockets placement line from Patsy Blouse center front piece onto your garment.
2. Cut four pieces of cording the length of the smile pocket lines.
3. Line up one cord below one smile pocket placement line and zigzag stitch cord in place by machine or hand-sew cord in place with a couching stitch. 
4. Repeat with a second piece of cord above the placement line. 
5. Make a triangle template with sturdy cardstock that is roughly ⅝” wide and long.
6. Trace around the template onto a scrap of leather or suede.
7. Cut template 4 times out of leather and position one at each end of cord “smiles”, overlapping cord ends by ⅛”, and edgestitch around triangles. 

I can’t wait to see how you wear your Faux Smile Pockets. Happy sewing!

Xoxo, Gertie

Supplies:

• One yard velvet ribbon – opt for 3/4″ to 1″ width
• Glue gun 
• Rotary cutter or scissors
• Pin/brooch backing

Instructions: 

1. Cut your ribbon into three lengths: 
   1. One 8-½  inch (in) long strip
   2. One 3 in long strip
   3. One 10 in long strip
2. Create a loop with your  8-½ length of ribbon, overlapping the ends by ½ in. Glue between the layers. 
3. Divide your 10-in strip of ribbon in half lengthwise. Pinch it in the middle and turn the ends down to create the tails of your bow. Ensure they point downwards rather than outwards. Position it behind your ribbon loop from step 2, centering it on the back of the loop. Glue to attach.
4. Create the bow’s knot by wrapping your 3-in strip of ribbon around the center of the bow loop and between the bow’s tails. Glue in place and trim any excess ribbon on the back of the bow.
5. Cut the ends at an angle with a rotary cutter for a pretty shape. 
6. Add a strip of glue to attach your pin backing on the back of the bow. Allow to dry.

I can’t wait to see how you wear your Western Bow Tie. Happy sewing!

Xoxo,

Gertie

Today, I’m bringing you a decorative lacing tutorial, perfect for adding a little drama to your wardrobe. We used it on our Waspie Corset pattern, but you can get creative with it. It’s perfect for pulling together a DIY Halloween look, or add lacing to everything in your closet––who are we to stop you? 

We used it to add a little bit of drama to Gigi’s Pirate look. It comes together in a pinch, and really transforms any garment into something just a little bit sassier.

Xoxo,

Gertie

Photo credits: Lucy La Riot

Are you ready for today’s ghastly adventure? Today, we’ll be showing you how to hand paint a skirt or garment of your choice. Perfect for adding that special touch to your costumes or a bit of couture to your day, I think you’ll find today’s tutorial to die for.

I used it to create this Haunted Mansion Tightrope Walker look, and you can download our flower stencil template here!

For my skirt, here are the specific supplies I used:

• White silk dupioni fabric
• Charm Circle Skirt free pattern
• Jacquard Lumiere fabric paints in Citrine and Burgundy
• Stencil Film 
• Paint Brushes (I used two small flat craft brushes)
• Flower stencil template

I hope you love this project! Come back tomorrow for more spoooooky delights.

Xoxo,

Gertie

Photo credits: Lucy La Riot

Our new Scout Dress (available on Patreon) has gores and a curved hem that make the skirt less than ideal for the straightness of the border print. So here, we’re going to show you how to adapt the Scout Dress for use with our Camp Gertie border print. 

Cutting Your Skirt

To create the border print skirt, I cut 3 rectangles. Cut these pieces with the lower half of the print (the forest scene) on the bottom of your skirt, and reserve the upper half of the print (the sky and clouds) for your bodice). Note that you will be cutting everything in a crosswise layout (with the print running horizontally around your body), so the pattern pieces will be turned in a different direction than you may be used to for a conventional cutting layout. 

For the skirt front pieces, I cut two rectangles. For the width I measured 36 inches (in), plus 1¼ in for the front facing, and ⅝ in for the side seam allowance, totaling 37⅞ in wide. I like my skirts 27 in long, so for the length I measured 27 in, plus ⅝ in for the waist seam allowance and ⅝ in for the hem allowance, totaling 28¼ in. As you’re cutting, check where the print will be oriented on your front skirt panels to make sure you’re happy with the print placement.

For the skirt back piece, I cut one rectangle 72 in wide, plus ⅝ in seam allowance on both sides, totaling 73¼ in wide by 28¼ in long.

Sewing the Skirt

1. Interface skirt front opening: using the skirt front interfacing (14) pattern piece, apply interfacing to the (WS) of center front of both skirt front pieces. 
2. Finish vertical edges on skirt front and skirt back pieces using your desired method. Finish edges on Pocket Bag (13).
3. Attach pockets to skirt: pin pocket bag to each side seam on the skirt front and skirt back piece RS together. Stitch using a ⅜-in (1 cm) seam allowance. Press pockets toward seam allowances.
4. Sew side seams: pin skirt fronts to the skirt back at the side seams. Stitch. Pivot at top and bottom of pockets and stitch around pocket edges. Clip into pivot points on back seam allowances, and press pockets toward skirt front. Press seam allowances open above and below pockets.
5. Gather skirt: using a 4-mm- to 5-mm-long gathering stitch, sew two lines of stitching along the skirt waist edge, starting and ending 2-½ in from the skirt front opening edges. Sew the first using a ½-in-wide (1.3 cm) seam allowance and the second using a ¼-in-wide (6 mm) seam allowance. Pull up bobbin threads from each side toward the center back to gather skirt.
6. Attach skirt to bodice: pin gathered skirt to bodice, matching side seamlines. Stitch. Grade seam allowances so bodice’s is the widest. Finish seam allowances as desired. Press seam allowances toward bodice. Press bodice and skirt facing to inside of dress. 
7. Sew buttonholes on right half of skirt opening: mark buttonhole placement on fabric RS, using the Scout Dress skirt pattern as a guide for the placement. Sew buttonholes following your machine’s buttonhole instructions and 
8. Sew buttons to left half of skirt opening to correspond to buttonholes.
9. Hem the dress: Press up the hem allowance and turn in the skirt front facings. Narrow-hem the skirt by machine or invisibly by hand, catching the facings in your stitching. 

Enjoy your beautiful border print Scout Dress!