Fit has always been central to this work – it’s so important to us that everyone can feel their absolute best in our patterns. Our current size range of sizes 2-20 with separate A-H cup sizes goes through painstaking testing to make sure that it fits every size in the chart beautifully. To serve even more vintage sewing enthusiasts, we have now created a new size range, in sizes 18-34 with cup sizes A-H. This new range will go up to a 64 inch bust, 56 inch waist and 64 inch hip. Please read on for size charts, as well as a timeline for releasing patterns in this new range. 

Which range should I choose?

You may notice that two sizes (18 and 20) appear in both size ranges. Our new range was developed independently from our original sizing, so the sizes in the overlap don’t perfectly match up to each other. This is because good fit in plus sizes necessitates the need for a new “block,” a base pattern developed specifically for that range (rather than continuing to grade up from a smaller sample size, which can result in poor fit at the upper end of the range). The new block was developed based on listening to community feedback, studying professional fit standards, and from years of assisting students with fit adjustments. 

If you are in the sizing overlap (sizes 18 and 20) and unsure which range to use, it’s best to assess your current fit within the 2-20 range:

• If you find yourself having to add width to the waist, you may be better off with the new range. 
• If the current range is too large in the bust compared to your other measurements, you may be better off with the new range.
• If the current range fits you well, then no need to change!

Here are measurements for both ranges so you can better assess:

Sizes 2-20

Sizes 18-34

When will the new range be available?

We’re launching the new size range on Patreon, so from August onward, every new design we release will be available in the new sizing. Meanwhile, we’ll be making our way through our existing patterns (for both Patreon and Charm Patterns) and releasing those older patterns in the new size range as quickly as we can. Because many of our patterns are technically complex and have many cup sizes (think shelf busts, ultra-fitted dresses, and more!), this process will take some time. Please be patient with us as we make our way through the archive. As much as we can’t wait to release everything in the new range, we don’t want to compromise fit for speed. For the time being, we will be releasing the new range in PDF only, based on guidance from industry leaders for making this transition as sustainable as possible. 

I already purchased a Charm pattern in the old size range – will I receive the new pattern in the entire range once it’s expanded?

The Charm Patterns archive is currently available in sizes 2-20, but we will be updating those patterns to include the new 18-34 range. Once we begin expanding those older patterns, the 18-34 range will be sold as a separate product from the existing range (meaning that you will choose either sizes 2-20 or sizes 18-34 in a drop-down menu when ordering a pattern). However, if you have already purchased a pattern in the old range and the new range is a better fit for you, we  will be able to help you out! Stay tuned for announcements when those patterns are updated. And please join our mailing list if you’d like to be updated as patterns are made available in the new size range!

What is the process for creating the new range like?

I know a lot of you are curious about how the drafting and grading process works! I thought the addition of this new range might be a good chance to demystify the process a bit, and also shed some light on why expanding a size range can take some time. 

All patterns start with a block, or a basic pattern. A block is a simple darted bodice, set-in sleeve, and basic skirt/pant. There are different blocks for knits and wovens (which, incidentally, is why it’s not usually a great idea to choose a knit when a woven is recommended). The block is developed in a single “sample size”, which can be chosen by the designer based on the availability of a fit model, or it can be smack dab in the middle of the range. The block conforms to a size chart, which is decided individually by each company. This allows the company to make decisions about their ideal fit. (For Charm, we’ve always focused on a specific fit, with the waist to hip measurement ratio being larger than what you might find in a store. We also focus on bust fit, providing A-H cup sizes for every single pattern.) Once the block is finalized, it can be used to create new patterns through flat pattern-making methods, and sometimes we use draping methods as well. Then the pattern is graded into the full range, and tested in a sampling of sizes and cup sizes throughout the range. Oftentimes many tests and revisions are needed for each pattern to make sure the fit is correct and the design is working as intended for all sizes. 

So if a designer wants to add sizes to their range, what happens to this process? One of the most common misconceptions about sizing is that it is easy to press a button and digitally grade up a pattern to any size. If only it were that simple! Grading too many sizes from one block results in distortion and poor fit the further you get away from the sample size. We also rely on hand grading for each of the cup sizes, as this is not something that can be done digitally. 

This meant that we needed to start from scratch for a new range with an entirely new block for sizes 18-34 and treat it as a separate product. This means that we have doubled the development timeline and process for every pattern. Since we only have three full time staff members and publish over 16 patterns a year, this is something we took really seriously as we didn’t want to offer a rushed product and let our quality suffer. I also wanted to be sure we could move forward in a way that was mindful of my team’s workload without making this work unsustainable for them. We assessed our workflows, made some ambitious changes, and got to work!

When developing the 18-34 block, we had the opportunity to address any fit problems that would have started occurring had we continued grading up the size 20 further. Based on plus size measurement charts, customer feedback, and my own discoveries from fitting students, we decided on a slightly different bust/waist/hip ratio to ensure a good fit for our 18-34 customers. This is why there is an overlap in the two size charts (sizes 18 and 20), and why the overlap sizes are not the same measurements in each chart. In the 18-34 range, we pay special attention to the fit in the shoulders, armhole, bust, and sleeves to make sure that the grade rule is resulting in a great fit. Once we’re happy with the fit in the entire range, we sew some fabulous samples for the photo shoot! Finally, the pattern itself has to be designed for the home sewist to use, meaning that the technical pattern files are converted and designed into easy-to-use PDF patterns available for both home and copy shop printing. 

I hope you’ve found the process interesting! We hope you love the new range.

There have been many discussions lately about indie pattern sizing, and I wanted to update you on what I have been working on behind the scenes to improve our inclusivity. Much of this I hoped to keep under wraps until I had concrete results and plans to share with you, but it is clear that we would all benefit from having an open conversation now.  

What We’re Doing Now 

I’m happy to say that we have been taking steps towards improvement: we have been drafting the next patterns (and the Lamour reissue) in dress sizes 2-20, and cup sizes A-H. This is a substantial step up from our current offerings of 2-16 with B-DD cup sizes. We are also working to increase visibility of other body types with the introduction of a second model (who wears about a 16H) for the official photos for these next patterns. I have previously been the sole model for Charm Patterns for a variety of reasons (including branding, logistical, and financial), but I am thrilled to add new faces and body types to Charm’s visual representation. I realize that there is more to be done in the future: hiring additional diverse models, hopefully adding additional sizes, and promoting as much inclusivity in our social media presence as possible. 

Additionally, I would like to say that Charm Patterns is a feminist, woman-owned company made up of a talented family of contributors, employees, and freelancers which includes women of color, LGBTQ folks, and plus size people. I believe that diversity is our strength, and I am proud of it. While this is a separate issue from size inclusivity, there are overlapping areas of concern and representing our diversity is a priority for me.

The Backstory 

Charm Patterns turned one year old in October 2018. My first size chart included dress sizes 2-16, which was the same as every other pattern line I have released (including Butterick, which uses different names for its sizes but is fundamentally the same), but I made the inclusion of four cup sizes, B-DD. I was quite proud of this, as having this many cup sizes is unique in the pattern world. I always knew that I would want to increase the dress sizes offered as well, but that it would take time to establish myself as a financially healthy company. Full disclosure: Charm Patterns is doing well enough for me to have recently hired a full time employee and rented a studio space, but I currently take none of the profits as personal income; I invest them back into the company. I am a single woman and don’t have a second income to rely on, so this means that I support myself through teaching and other projects. It also means that I have to be incredibly careful financially, or I could easily put myself out of business. 

When researching the market for plus sizes in 2018, I hired two patternmaking and fit consultants and I published a plus size survey to gather information about my demographic. I promoted the survey through Instagram, Facebook, and my blog, and received 955 responses. The surprising part of the results was that 629 of those respondents were already within my size chart (48” bust and below). This meant that 65 percent of people taking the survey didn’t realize they were already served by my sizing, and it left just 326 potential customers for a plus size line. Clothing sizing is confusing enough, and it was clear I needed to first improve public awareness of the sizes I already offered. 

Meanwhile, my consultants advised me that the best way to add a plus size line was to develop an entirely new sloper (aka sample size pattern) for a plus size profile customer, and to grade up and down from that size for an entirely new range which would be printed separately from the current size range. This presented a huge financial problem for me: this approach would double most of my costs and my time. To give you an idea, the Night and Day Dress took eight months to develop and the initial costs were in the $15,000 range. Even if I had the money (I didn’t), as a single overworked small business owner, I didn’t see where the time to develop this project would come from. And, of course, having only 326 customers with professed interest would not make the new line financially viable. With a minimum print run of 1,000 copies, taking this approach would be problematic for Charm’s financial sustainability.

However, there is a second way to do things which requires more testing and isn’t perfect: adding a maximum of two sizes to the existing range. This would mean that I could take my largest bust size up to a 52” without having to print and develop a second range. That will obviously not cover everyone’s fit needs (and I don’t believe there is a single pattern out there that can do that, unfortunately) but it will cover around half of the 326 people who filled out that survey and didn’t fit into the current range. I have shied away from this option as it was presented by my consultants as being imperfect, and I hold Charm Patterns to a very high standard. But with more thought and requests for improved sizing, I have decided to test the sizes 18 and 20 and hope for the best. I’m pleased that we are able to take this approach, and I will be calling on you to test! 

The Future 

There is still more that I hope to do to improve our sizing. If your size is not included in the current plans for expansion, please know that I hear your concerns and will be constantly looking for ways to make changes in a thoughtful and sustainable way.

As you can see from the survey numbers, we are not talking enormous profits and huge numbers of customers. Though I know we all feel like sewing is our world, we are still a niche and no one is getting rich from publishing indie patterns. But this is a labor of love. After a decade in this business, I still fall asleep thinking about sewing, and I wake up imagining what I’m going to create next. I know you all feel the same, and that is our common bond. Thank you for reading, and I can’t wait to tell you what’s next for Charm Patterns.