Let’s start with some inspiration. Dolly wore so many jumpsuits with big bell bottoms back in the 1970s! More images and inspiration can be found here.

So amazing! This jumpsuit hack combines the Lorelei Gown bodice with the Dolly Bell Bottoms, with added trim and just a tiny bit of pattern hacking to eliminate the center front V panel on the bodice.

Resources

• Lorelei Gown pattern
• Dolly Bell Bottoms pattern
• Black ponte knit fabric
• Power net, lining, thread, and a long invisible zipper (as in the Lorelei instructions)
• Rhinestone trim (similar)
• Black fringe with shiny sequins
• Black cowboy hat, big hair, a large spider brooch, and lots of rhinestone jewelry

Dolly Jumpsuit Pattern Alterations

1. Draw the seam allowances on the Lorelei Gown Bodice Front Insert (2) pattern piece. Fold the Bodice Front Insert in half lengthwise, as you will be cutting the jumpsuit front bodice on the fold. Measure the neckline edge of the pattern piece (not including the seam allowances!) from the folded edge to the long raw edge. This measurement will be short, around an inch or so.
2. Tape tracing paper to the Bodice Front (1) pattern piece at the center front. Draw a line from the upper CF circle away from the pattern piece, roughly perpendicular to the grainline, equal in length to your measurement in Step One. Draw a line from the lower CF circle to the waistline, parallel to the grainline. Draw a line to connect the two points to create your new center line; connect the end of the first short line to the point where the second line crosses the waistline. This will be your new center front and will be cut on the fold. Draw the “cut on the fold” arrows and scribble out the original grainline. You may want to curve the corner of the new neckline so it isn’t so square. Cut out and label your new pattern piece.
3. I wanted to wear tall platform heels to make the bell bottoms really stand out, so I added about 6 inches to the inseam of the pants.

Dolly Jumpsuit Sewing Instructions

Follow the Lorelei Gown sewing instructions to create the bodice, cutting the new Bodice Front on the fold in fabric, lining, and power net. Ignore all references to the Bodice Front Insert.

Before inserting the sleeves, try on the bodice and adjust the front waist and bust darts as needed. Some of the bust shaping of the original pattern was provided by the bodice front insert, so you may need to pinch out additional fabric to create a perfect fit. Resew the darts and/or side seams, as needed.

Before sewing the sleeve seam, baste fringe to the vertical seam (outer fabric only), then sew the sleeves as usual. (All sleeves should have fringe! It’s so fun!)

Ignore the panty and skirt instructions. Instead, follow the Dolly Bell Bottoms instructions to create the pants (without the waistband), attach to the bodice, and insert the zipper.

After construction, try on the jumpsuit and use chalk to mark out the spiderweb lines. Hand stitch rhinestone trim to create the spiderweb decoration, and add a large spider brooch to complete the look.

xoxo, Jasmin

About the guest artist: Jasmin Rodriguez is a renowned style expert and the owner of Vintage Vandalizm. This limited edition Vegas-based line pays homage to silver screen vixens from the 1920s to the 1980s, focusing on sensual fabrics that embrace the figure, all while delivering effortless glamour. Learn more about Jasmin at www.vintagevandalizm.com and @vintagevandal on Instagram.

This pattern was originally published on Patreon on March 15, 2022.

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