Since we still have a gallon of fake blood in the studio (from the 2022 Halloween Extravaganza with Bloody Mary), this somehow led us down a rabbit hole where we ended up creating a many-layered Marie Antoinette costume. 

And with Jacky Sanger working with us in the studio this summer, we were able to make this costume (relatively!) historically accurate. Of course, I doubt Marie would have appreciated the cocktail-length skirt or all of the attempts to photoshop my head into a basket, but we tried! 

If you want to recreate a similar 18th century costume, you’ll need all of these layers:

1. A three-layer Charm Foundations Petticoat in silk organza. We affectionately call ours the Sea Monster.
2. Another chiffon petticoat. Ours is from Malco Mode, but any will do. You want LOTS of fluff!
3. A muslin circle skirt to smooth out the petticoat layers. Since this is a costume, we didn’t even bother to hem it!
4. A custom-made bum roll. We made ours from muslin and polyfill, with grosgrain ribbon for a waist tape. This is a bit like a padded donut belt, with all of the padding at the hips and back. (You might be able to hack something together with heavily stuffed fanny packs, but don’t tell Jacky that I suggested something so historically inappropriate!)
5. A pleated and gathered Liz skirt in pink silk satin. We made ours in a long cocktail length, but you could also make it go to the floor. When hemming, don’t forget the added complication of the bum roll. 
6. The bodice with attached overskirt.

The bodice is a heavily hacked Maria Dress bodice, with a squared neckline, basque waist, and center front closure. 

The sleeves started as the Maria sleeves, but then Jacky taught us how to create a single-seamed, historically accurate fitted sleeve with a layered cuff. She then hand-tacked Alençon lace motifs to flocked tulle to create the perfect oval ruffle as a bit of decorative trim. If you want to see every crazy step of how they were done, check out charmpatterns.com/marie-antoinette-sleeve.

We then added even more frosting with more lace at the neckline, fork-pleated trim along the princess seams, and graduated bows tacked at center front. 

The overskirt is a simple pleated rectangle, attached to the bodice starting at the front princess seam. Then we tucked the front corners of the skirt into the side seam at the waist and stuffed the folded skirt hem with lots of tulle to create even more floof. It looks like magic, but it is very easy to do!

Resources

• The sleeve from the Maria Dress pattern
• The usual pattern drafting paper, rulers, tape, markers, and supplies
• Gumption!

Pattern Drafting for the Sleeve Pattern Pieces

1. Make the Maria three-quarter sleeve, as the pattern requires. Try it on and pinch out where the elbow bends (on the front of the sleeve, not the seam). Make any other necessary fit adjustments, and pinch out any extra ease. This is a very fitted style.
2. Remove the seam allowance from the vertical sleeve seams. Mark 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) down from the underarm, then draw a straight line connecting the underarm points. This marks the bicep line. Take a measurement of the bicep line, and write it someplace safe.
3. Mark the sewline at the front armhole notch (5/8 inch or 1.5 cm from the armscye edge). Draw a line through this point parallel to the front sleeve seam. This will be the new (single) vertical sleeve seam. It is VERY forward of modern sleeves, as you can see in the image above.
4. Cut along the new seam line. Tape together the other vertical seams so you have one sleeve pattern piece. Mark a notch on the sleeve cap at the original sleeve seam line (this will help when sewing it to the bodice). Transfer any of the fit adjustments from Step One to the sleeve pattern.
5. Transfer the location and amount of elbow pinch on the original sleeve seam and on both sides of the new sleeve seam. Connect the points as shown in the drawing below. Cut along these lines and pivot so they meet, then tape. Add paper behind the gap at the sleeve hem and tape. When sewing, this triangle at the hem will be a dart, so mark it as usual for darts.
6. Redraw the new vertical sleeve seams into a smooth curve. Add back the seam allowances for the vertical seam. Mark a notch on each vertical seam where the elbow excess was pinched out; this will help match the sleeve sides when you sew them together.
7. Roll the paper sleeve together into a tube to line up the sleeve seams, and make sure the curves are the same. The sleeve will want to twist; this is expected. If the curves are not the same, adjust as needed.
8. True the sleeve cap and sleeve hem.
9. Measure the new bicep line; it is perpendicular to the grainline and passes through the underarm sew line. It’s likely shorter than your previous bicep measurement. Draw two slash lines between the shoulder notch and double back notch, parallel to the sleeve grainline.
10. Slash and spread until your bicep measurement is correct. The pattern at the sleeve hem should hinge; you are adding only to the sleeve cap. Tape down to new pattern paper underneath. Draw new bicep and grainlines. True the hem and sleeve cap. When sewing, you’ll gather between the sleeve notches before attaching the sleeve to the bodice.
11. Be sure to make a muslin to test the new sleeve!

Inspired by the 1960 “Solo in the Spotlight” design created for our favorite blonde collectible, this sparkly dress combines the basic Jewel Neck Top and Pencil Skirt patterns into one glamorous garment.

Resources

• Sequin knit fabric with 50–70% two-way stretch 
• Knit lining fabric with the same stretch percentage as the sequin knit fabric. We recommend knit jersey that will be soft against the skin.
• Stretch illusion mesh fabric with 50–70% two-way stretch
• Stiff tulle fabric
• Thread to match
• ¼”-wide (6 mm) clear elastic to stabilize shoulders and waistline

Pattern Pieces Needed

• Self-drafted Illusion Yoke Front (cut 1 illusion mesh on fold)
• Self-drafted Illusion Yoke Back (cut 2 illusion mesh)
• Self-drafted Illusion Bodice Front (cut 1 sequin knit on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Self-drafted Illusion Bodice Back (cut 1 sequin knit on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Self-drafted Pegged Skirt Front (cut 1 fabric on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Self-drafted Pegged Skirt Back (cut 1 fabric on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Self-drafted Tulle Flounce (cut 3 tulle)

Pattern Drafting for the “Hack” Self-drafted Pattern Pieces

Illusion Bodice Pattern Drafting Instructions

1. Prepare bodice for skirt attachment. Cut the Jewel Neck Top Front and Back pattern pieces at the waistline. Add seam allowances below the cut waistline. 
2. Remove armhole seam allowance. On the top front, draw a line ⅝” (1.5 cm) in from the armscye to remove the seam allowances. Cut away the seam allowances. Repeat on the top back.
3. Determine illusion yoke placement. Hold up the top front pattern piece to your body or a dress form to determine where you would like the mesh yoke and sequin fabric to meet to create the illusion of a strapless bodice. Draw this line onto the pattern piece. For Susie’s dress, we started the line at the underarm and curved up to a point 9¾” (24.8 cm) above the waist at center front (CF). Repeat for the top back, drawing a straight line from the bottom of the armscye to the center back (CB), perpendicular to the CB line. Add notches along each line about 2” (5 cm) in from the armscye to help with alignment. Cut along each line to create separate yoke and bodice pieces.
4. Draft front yoke. Trace the new yoke pattern piece. Add seam allowances to the armhole and lower edge. Label as Illusion Yoke Front, cut 1 illusion mesh on fold, maintaining the original direction-of-greatest-stretch (DOGS). 
5. Draft back yoke. Repeat the previous step to create the yoke back. Add seam allowances at the CB. Label as Illusion Yoke Back, cut 2 illusion mesh, maintaining the original DOGS .
6. Draft the illusion bodice. Trace the bodice pattern piece. Draw a gentle curve from the underarm seam to the added notch. This will fill in the bodice and help to create the illusion of a strapless dress. Add seam allowances to the upper edge of the bodice. Label as Illusion Bodice Front, cut 1 sequin knit on fold and 1 lining on fold, maintaining the original DOGS. Repeat to create the Illusion Bodice Back, truing the sharp corner into a gentle curve instead of filling in the bodice.

Pegged Skirt with Tulle Flounce Pattern Drafting Instructions

1. Draft the pegged skirt. On the Pencil Skirt Front, draw a line 2” (5 cm) up from the hem to shorten the skirt. Mark 1¾” (4.4 cm) in from the side seam at the new hem. Draw a straight line to connect this mark to the hip notch. Trace a new pattern piece. Label as Pegged Skirt Front, cut 1 fabric on fold and 1 lining on fold, maintaining the original DOGS. Repeat using the Skirt Back to create the Pegged Skirt Back.
2. Draft the skirt flounce. Draw a rectangle 15” (38.1 cm) wide (or your desired length) by twice the pegged skirt hem circumference long. Add seam allowances to all four sides (G). Label as Tulle Flounce, cut 3 tulle, with the grainline parallel to the long edge.

Sewing Instructions

1. Cut out the pattern pieces and transfer pattern markings to the wrong side (WS) of the fabric. Before removing the pattern paper, make a notch at the CF and CB of the bodice neckline and waist. Make a notch at the CF and CB of the skirt waist. These notches will help align the skirt and lining.
2. Stitch the yoke front to the yoke back at the shoulder seams with a ⅝” (1.5 cm) seam allowance, right sides (RS) together. Sew again at ½” (1.3 cm). Trim the excess seam allowance, being careful not to cut into your stitches. Press the shoulder seams to the yoke back.
3. Cut a long length of illusion mesh 1¼” (3.2 cm) wide for binding. Stitch the binding to the yoke CB opening, RS together, with a straight stitch. Trim SA to ⅛” (3 mm). Fold binding over the SA, wrapping tightly, so the raw edge of the binding just covers the sewn seam. Stitch in the ditch with a straight stitch, from the RS of the yoke, to secure. Repeat to bind the yoke neckline and armscyes.
4. Sew the bust dart (busts F–H only) and press the dart down.
5. Stitch the bodice front to the bodice back at the side seams, RS together. Repeat for the bodice lining.
6. Baste the sequin bodice to the yoke front, RS together, matching notches. Repeat to baste the yoke back, aligning the yoke CB opening to the bodice CB notch.
7. Stitch the sequin bodice to the bodice lining, RS together (with the yoke sandwiched between), along the entire upper edge. Grade seam allowances and understitch. Baste the bodice to the lining at the waistline, WS together.
8. Sew the skirt front to the skirt back at the side seams, RS together. Repeat for the lining. 
9. Hem the skirt lining with a ⅝” seam allowance.
10. Create three rings of tulle. Gather one raw edge of each length of tulle. Baste together as one along the gathered edge.
11. Stitch tulle to sequin skirt lower raw edge, RS together, aligning the tulle seam to one side seam and adjusting gathers as needed. Trim seam allowances and press towards the skirt. The tulle will not stretch, so you may wish to leave approximately 6” (15.2 cm) unsewn at the CB to make sure you can get the dress over your head. Use small hooks and eyes to attach the loose tulle to the dress.
12. Baste the skirt to the skirt lining at the waistline, WS together. Stitch the bodice to the skirt at the waistline, RS together, matching notches and side seams, and stitching clear elastic along the waistline as you sew. Hold the elastic taut but do not stretch. Trim seam allowances and press towards the bodice.

Let’s start with some inspiration. Dolly wore so many jumpsuits with big bell bottoms back in the 1970s! More images and inspiration can be found here.

So amazing! This jumpsuit hack combines the Lorelei Gown bodice with the Dolly Bell Bottoms, with added trim and just a tiny bit of pattern hacking to eliminate the center front V panel on the bodice.

Resources

• Lorelei Gown pattern
• Dolly Bell Bottoms pattern
• Black ponte knit fabric
• Power net, lining, thread, and a long invisible zipper (as in the Lorelei instructions)
• Rhinestone trim (similar)
• Black fringe with shiny sequins
• Black cowboy hat, big hair, a large spider brooch, and lots of rhinestone jewelry

Dolly Jumpsuit Pattern Alterations

1. Draw the seam allowances on the Lorelei Gown Bodice Front Insert (2) pattern piece. Fold the Bodice Front Insert in half lengthwise, as you will be cutting the jumpsuit front bodice on the fold. Measure the neckline edge of the pattern piece (not including the seam allowances!) from the folded edge to the long raw edge. This measurement will be short, around an inch or so.
2. Tape tracing paper to the Bodice Front (1) pattern piece at the center front. Draw a line from the upper CF circle away from the pattern piece, roughly perpendicular to the grainline, equal in length to your measurement in Step One. Draw a line from the lower CF circle to the waistline, parallel to the grainline. Draw a line to connect the two points to create your new center line; connect the end of the first short line to the point where the second line crosses the waistline. This will be your new center front and will be cut on the fold. Draw the “cut on the fold” arrows and scribble out the original grainline. You may want to curve the corner of the new neckline so it isn’t so square. Cut out and label your new pattern piece.
3. I wanted to wear tall platform heels to make the bell bottoms really stand out, so I added about 6 inches to the inseam of the pants.

Dolly Jumpsuit Sewing Instructions

Follow the Lorelei Gown sewing instructions to create the bodice, cutting the new Bodice Front on the fold in fabric, lining, and power net. Ignore all references to the Bodice Front Insert.

Before inserting the sleeves, try on the bodice and adjust the front waist and bust darts as needed. Some of the bust shaping of the original pattern was provided by the bodice front insert, so you may need to pinch out additional fabric to create a perfect fit. Resew the darts and/or side seams, as needed.

Before sewing the sleeve seam, baste fringe to the vertical seam (outer fabric only), then sew the sleeves as usual. (All sleeves should have fringe! It’s so fun!)

Ignore the panty and skirt instructions. Instead, follow the Dolly Bell Bottoms instructions to create the pants (without the waistband), attach to the bodice, and insert the zipper.

After construction, try on the jumpsuit and use chalk to mark out the spiderweb lines. Hand stitch rhinestone trim to create the spiderweb decoration, and add a large spider brooch to complete the look.

This type of pattern hacking is one of my favorite ways to play! I love taking existing Charm patterns and turning them into something new, especially for our Halloween Extravaganza.

For full details and measurements of how to recreate this hack, look to pages 16-19 of Issue 7 of Vintage by Gertie Magazine, available to Patreon members in the Glamour Circle tier and higher, but the basics are as follows:

We started with the Las Vegas Halter Top (available on Patreon) and used ribbon to plan out the size and placement of our color-blocked heart. Once we transferred those lines onto the paper pattern pieces, we lowered the neckline to create more drama, and a more distinctive heart-shape. After a few mock-ups in fabric from our stash, we made a few more changes to the pattern pieces, and moved on to the black and red version you see here.

We paired the top with color-blocked Loretta Shorts (also available on Patreon), turning it into a chic romper and keeping the costume versatile for everyday wear (and for Disney-bounding).

Then, we crafted a separate Homecoming Skirt (another Patreon favorite), complete with a waist facing, to layer over top.

Finally, we crowned this creation with a fabric-wrapped wire headpiece, and the look was complete!

Because a white circle skirt is a wardrobe staple, I opted to create this look as separates, so for this pattern hack, Andrea and I began by altering the Bryant Gown pattern to create the top of Kim’s dress, which we then paired with a white chiffon circle skirt.

Read on to see how we achieved this look! For even more details, please see pages 33-36 in Issue 7 of Vintage by Gertie magazine, available on Patreon to members in the Glamour Circle tier and higher.

Resources

• Bryant Gown Pattern
• Free Charm Circle Skirt 
• White Stretch Cotton/ Poly Pique
• White Silk Duchess Satin
• White Silk Chiffon
• White Satin Covered Buttons
• 2-inch Buckle (similar)
• Long Blonde Wig
• Washable Fake Blood 

Bryant Gown Top Alterations and Instructions

We began by reshaping the neckline of the Bryant Gown, drawing a line from the dress center front shoulder edge, perpendicular to the center front. The same alteration was made on the back of the dress and the cap of the raglan sleeve, ensuring a seamless transition for the future neck band.

After taping the dress side front to the dress center front at the princess seam at the sew line, Andrea sketched a curved line for the dropped waist. Using a serrated tracing wheel, she then traced the same line onto the dress back, making sure the side seams had a smooth transition.

Andrea then created a a self-drafted cuff on the gown’s three-quarter raglan sleeve, and made a long rectangular band for the neckline. A 2 inch belt buckle from the Charm stash became the focal point of Kim’s iconic look.

The band itself is seamed at the shoulder and split at the back, requiring multiple pattern pieces: the Band Right Front, a long curved rectangle that flares at one end to tuck through the belt buckle, the Band Left Front, a short rectangle hidden under the buckle, and the Band Right Back and Band Left Back, two trapezoids that meet at a point over the lapped zipper opening.

We stitched the top in a sumptuous white cotton pique, with the neckband and cuffs sewn in silk duchess satin, added buttons down the front, and paired it with a white double-layer chiffon circle skirt, all lined in white poly satin (for the blouse) or white cotton (for the skirt).

The result? A costume as hauntingly romantic as the tale that inspired it.

I’ve included the PDF (or SVG) file and step-by-step instructions below so you can make your own.

Resources

• Bat fascinator file in SVG or PDF format
• 1/4 yard of black buckram
• black metallic textured faux leather
• Liquid Fusion or other quick-drying fabric glue
• black fascinator hat base
• black headband
• 1 yard black millinery wire
• rhinestone trim
• six faux flowers
• black or gray Silamide thread
• black thread
• pliers

Bat Fascinator Construction

Using the PDF or SVG file at the final size you wish your bat to be, cut two buckram bat shapes, adding a 2-inch (in) by 1 in (5 cm by 2.5 cm) tall tab below the center of the bat. Slice the tabs so you have a one tab with three legs: 1/2 in, 1 in, 1/2 in (1.3 cm, 2.5 cm, 1.3 cm).

Placing the bats on top of each other, stitch around the edge at 1/8 in (3 mm). Zigzag the layers of tabs together.

Cut a long piece of millinery wire and bend it to the approximate shape of the top edge of the bat using pliers, extending off the edge of each wing by at least one inch. Cut a second piece, bending it to match the bottom of the bat shape (not the wings).

Using a wide zigzag stitch, attach the wire to the buckram. Using your pliers, create small loops with the excess wire at the end of each wing; this will remove the sharp ends of the wire.

Using the SVG file and your craft cutting machine (or the PDF file and an Exacto knife), cut two faux leather shapes to match the bat outline and wing ribs. Because I used a scrap of faux leather, I cut each of mine in four pieces: one for each wing, one for the head, and one for the bottom edge.

Glue one bat border and ribs to one side of your buckram bat using Liquid Fusion or quick-drying fabric glue. (A hair dryer will really speed up the drying process!)

While the glue is drying, construct your fascinator base. Attach the fascinator frame to your headband using a wide zigzag stitch over the headband in three spots. It should be secure, but the headband can also slide a bit so you can reposition the fascinator to either side as you wish.

Stitch two millinery wire supports to the fascinator on either side of where you want to place the bat. I made circles and then bent them upwards and twisted the ends. The photo above shows a single wire support, and the photo below shows them both.

Once your glue is dry, use Silamide thread to attach the rhinestone trim around the entire exterior of the bat, cutting at corners and points to make sure they look sharp. I used rhinestone trim with a black base, so it would blend into the faux leather outline.

Of course I went for more bling! If you want to add rhinestone drops hanging from the bat wings, lay out each length of rhinestone drop (approximately 2-4 inches) and stitch to the bottom point of each bat wing and ribs.

Glue the second faux leather bat border and ribs to the backside of the fascinator, hiding your stitching.

To attach your big bat to the fascinator, slide the two millinery wire supports up through the layers of buckram and position the tabs on the fascinator. Stitch the center tab forward between the front support. Stitch the smaller two side tabs next to each side of the back support. Using tiny stitches, stitch the two millinery wire supports inside the bat to secure.

Glue or stitch three faux flowers on front and another 3 to the back of the fascinator, hiding the millinery wire armature and the tabs of the bat.

Resources

• Turner Cardigan pattern (available to Patreon Glamour Circle+ members)
• White sweater knit fabric for the cardigan
• Black rhinestone buttons
• Bat appliqué file in SVG or PDF format
• Black felt
• Black thread
• Small rhinestones for the bat eyes
• Fabric glue

Turner Cardigan

Follow the steps to create the Turner Cardigan, using black rhinestone buttons.

Cut 8 bat appliqués from black felt, using the SVG file and your craft cutting machine (like a Cricut or Silhouette), or the PDF file and sharp scissors.

Pin the bats to the neckline of the cardigan, to your liking. Stitch only the body section of each bat, leaving the wings free. Using fabric glue, attach two small rhinestones to each bat for eyes.

Other Ideas for the Bat Appliqués

There are so many other ways to use these felt bats! Attach them to a length of ribbon for a decorative garland, decorate a wreath for your front door, or attach to a beret or other accessory for a subtle Halloween look.

For this spooky dress, I was inspired by the stunning black and white gown worn by Katrina Crane (née Van Tassel) in Tim Burton’s Sleepy Hollow. The costume designer for the movie (and many of Burton’s movies) is Colleen Atwood, an amazingly prolific and talented designer who has created many of the gowns and looks I am obsessed with.

The Katrina Dress is a variation of Charm’s Carousel Dress, with an added sleeve and bustle. We’ve layered a modified Waspie Corset Belt on top. Keep reading to see how we achieved this look…

Resources

• Carousel Dress pattern (available to Patreon members)
• Katrina Sleeve pattern (available to Patreon members)
• Katrina Waspie Belt pattern (available to Patreon members)
• Waspie Corset Belt instructions (available to Patreon members)
• blank and white striped silk fabric
• black ribbon trim
• black bias binding or fabric to trim the Katrina Waspie Belt

Corset Dress Pattern Alterations and Instructions

Cut the Carousel Dress Side Front and Dress Side Back pattern pieces on the bias, adding a seamline at the waist. Add the Katrina Sleeve, following the sleeve instructions. Trim the neckline and sleeve hems by topstitching black ruffled ribbon.

Make the faux bustle by cutting a length of fabric 80 inches (in) (2 m) long, then fold in half right sides (RS) together to create a 40-in (1-m) long piece. Stitch the sides, turn RS out, and pleat one raw edge to match the width of your back princess seams at the waistline. Cover the pleated edge with grosgrain ribbon and attach the hook side of the hook-and-eye tape. Attach the eye side of the tape to the dress waistline between the back princess seams. Try on the dress and safety pin the bustle into rumpled layers, creating a poof at the bum. Trim the neckline and sleeve hems with black ribbon trim.

Katrina Waspie Belt Instructions

Make the striped Katrina Waspie Belt, pattern matching stripes where possible (not an easy task!), following the original Waspie Corset Belt instructions. Trim as desired using the black bias binding and/or ribbon. We applied layered black trim along the upper edge of the belt to match the neckline and sleeve hems, and added black trim along the bottom edge from the inside of the belt so it just peeks out. 

Costume Resources

• Skipper Bodysuit pattern (available to Patreon members)
• Harlequin diamond print fabric (we used the modern jersey substrate)
• Harlequin Hat
• Chiffon pompoms
• Harlequin Neck Ruffle
• Fishnet tights
• Corset (or you can use the Waspie Corset Belt)

Harlequin Hat 

Follow the steps in our Witch Hat Tutorial, omitting the brim and adding an extra 2 inches of seam allowance to the length of the silk dupioni cone. We used pink silk dupioni and pink felt from our stash, plus nylon chiffon dyed black for the pompoms. Follow our step-by-step pompom tutorial here. You’ll also want a 12-inch piece of tubular elastic to help secure the hat to your head.

Harlequin Neck Ruffle 

• 2-inch-wide pink dupioni bias strip, approximately 48 inches long, for the ties
• Four black nylon chiffon strips measuring 4 1/2 inches by 36 inches
• Four pink nylon tulle strips measuring 4 1/2 inches by 36 inches

Note: We determined the length of our chiffon and tulle strips by multiplying the neck measurement by 3. You can vary your ruffle fullness by adding or removing length.

1. Layer your fabric so you have 2 chiffon, 2 tulle, 2 chiffon, 2 tulle. Pin along one long edge. Sew gathering stitches along the long edge, being sure to catch all 8 layers. Gather to your neck measurement minus 1 inch.
2. Attach the silk bias binding to the gathered ruffle edge, leaving equal amounts of binding on either side of the ruffle to become your ties. Trim the chiffon/tulle seam allowance and fold binding over ruffle. Pin into place, and pin ties to enclose seam allowances.
3. Edgestitch ties and stitch in the ditch to secure bias binding around ruffle. Try on the ruffle, using the ties to create a bow. Trim tie ends to the desired length.

And here’s an idea for styling your harlequin bodysuit all year round! I paired it with the Brooklyn Jacket (Patreon) and the free Charm Circle Skirt to make a cute everyday outfit.