Since we still have a gallon of fake blood in the studio (from the 2022 Halloween Extravaganza with Bloody Mary), this somehow led us down a rabbit hole where we ended up creating a many-layered Marie Antoinette costume. 

And with Jacky Sanger working with us in the studio this summer, we were able to make this costume (relatively!) historically accurate. Of course, I doubt Marie would have appreciated the cocktail-length skirt or all of the attempts to photoshop my head into a basket, but we tried! 

If you want to recreate a similar 18th century costume, you’ll need all of these layers:

1. A three-layer Charm Foundations Petticoat in silk organza. We affectionately call ours the Sea Monster.
2. Another chiffon petticoat. Ours is from Malco Mode, but any will do. You want LOTS of fluff!
3. A muslin circle skirt to smooth out the petticoat layers. Since this is a costume, we didn’t even bother to hem it!
4. A custom-made bum roll. We made ours from muslin and polyfill, with grosgrain ribbon for a waist tape. This is a bit like a padded donut belt, with all of the padding at the hips and back. (You might be able to hack something together with heavily stuffed fanny packs, but don’t tell Jacky that I suggested something so historically inappropriate!)
5. A pleated and gathered Liz skirt in pink silk satin. We made ours in a long cocktail length, but you could also make it go to the floor. When hemming, don’t forget the added complication of the bum roll. 
6. The bodice with attached overskirt.

The bodice is a heavily hacked Maria Dress bodice, with a squared neckline, basque waist, and center front closure. 

The sleeves started as the Maria sleeves, but then Jacky taught us how to create a single-seamed, historically accurate fitted sleeve with a layered cuff. She then hand-tacked Alençon lace motifs to flocked tulle to create the perfect oval ruffle as a bit of decorative trim. If you want to see every crazy step of how they were done, check out charmpatterns.com/marie-antoinette-sleeve.

We then added even more frosting with more lace at the neckline, fork-pleated trim along the princess seams, and graduated bows tacked at center front. 

The overskirt is a simple pleated rectangle, attached to the bodice starting at the front princess seam. Then we tucked the front corners of the skirt into the side seam at the waist and stuffed the folded skirt hem with lots of tulle to create even more floof. It looks like magic, but it is very easy to do!

Resources

• The sleeve from the Maria Dress pattern
• The usual pattern drafting paper, rulers, tape, markers, and supplies
• Gumption!

Pattern Drafting for the Sleeve Pattern Pieces

1. Make the Maria three-quarter sleeve, as the pattern requires. Try it on and pinch out where the elbow bends (on the front of the sleeve, not the seam). Make any other necessary fit adjustments, and pinch out any extra ease. This is a very fitted style.
2. Remove the seam allowance from the vertical sleeve seams. Mark 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) down from the underarm, then draw a straight line connecting the underarm points. This marks the bicep line. Take a measurement of the bicep line, and write it someplace safe.
3. Mark the sewline at the front armhole notch (5/8 inch or 1.5 cm from the armscye edge). Draw a line through this point parallel to the front sleeve seam. This will be the new (single) vertical sleeve seam. It is VERY forward of modern sleeves, as you can see in the image above.
4. Cut along the new seam line. Tape together the other vertical seams so you have one sleeve pattern piece. Mark a notch on the sleeve cap at the original sleeve seam line (this will help when sewing it to the bodice). Transfer any of the fit adjustments from Step One to the sleeve pattern.
5. Transfer the location and amount of elbow pinch on the original sleeve seam and on both sides of the new sleeve seam. Connect the points as shown in the drawing below. Cut along these lines and pivot so they meet, then tape. Add paper behind the gap at the sleeve hem and tape. When sewing, this triangle at the hem will be a dart, so mark it as usual for darts.
6. Redraw the new vertical sleeve seams into a smooth curve. Add back the seam allowances for the vertical seam. Mark a notch on each vertical seam where the elbow excess was pinched out; this will help match the sleeve sides when you sew them together.
7. Roll the paper sleeve together into a tube to line up the sleeve seams, and make sure the curves are the same. The sleeve will want to twist; this is expected. If the curves are not the same, adjust as needed.
8. True the sleeve cap and sleeve hem.
9. Measure the new bicep line; it is perpendicular to the grainline and passes through the underarm sew line. It’s likely shorter than your previous bicep measurement. Draw two slash lines between the shoulder notch and double back notch, parallel to the sleeve grainline.
10. Slash and spread until your bicep measurement is correct. The pattern at the sleeve hem should hinge; you are adding only to the sleeve cap. Tape down to new pattern paper underneath. Draw new bicep and grainlines. True the hem and sleeve cap. When sewing, you’ll gather between the sleeve notches before attaching the sleeve to the bodice.
11. Be sure to make a muslin to test the new sleeve!

Inspired by the 1960 “Solo in the Spotlight” design created for our favorite blonde collectible, this sparkly dress combines the basic Jewel Neck Top and Pencil Skirt patterns into one glamorous garment.

Resources

• Sequin knit fabric with 50–70% two-way stretch 
• Knit lining fabric with the same stretch percentage as the sequin knit fabric. We recommend knit jersey that will be soft against the skin.
• Stretch illusion mesh fabric with 50–70% two-way stretch
• Stiff tulle fabric
• Thread to match
• ¼”-wide (6 mm) clear elastic to stabilize shoulders and waistline

Pattern Pieces Needed

• Self-drafted Illusion Yoke Front (cut 1 illusion mesh on fold)
• Self-drafted Illusion Yoke Back (cut 2 illusion mesh)
• Self-drafted Illusion Bodice Front (cut 1 sequin knit on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Self-drafted Illusion Bodice Back (cut 1 sequin knit on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Self-drafted Pegged Skirt Front (cut 1 fabric on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Self-drafted Pegged Skirt Back (cut 1 fabric on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Self-drafted Tulle Flounce (cut 3 tulle)

Pattern Drafting for the “Hack” Self-drafted Pattern Pieces

Illusion Bodice Pattern Drafting Instructions

1. Prepare bodice for skirt attachment. Cut the Jewel Neck Top Front and Back pattern pieces at the waistline. Add seam allowances below the cut waistline. 
2. Remove armhole seam allowance. On the top front, draw a line ⅝” (1.5 cm) in from the armscye to remove the seam allowances. Cut away the seam allowances. Repeat on the top back.
3. Determine illusion yoke placement. Hold up the top front pattern piece to your body or a dress form to determine where you would like the mesh yoke and sequin fabric to meet to create the illusion of a strapless bodice. Draw this line onto the pattern piece. For Susie’s dress, we started the line at the underarm and curved up to a point 9¾” (24.8 cm) above the waist at center front (CF). Repeat for the top back, drawing a straight line from the bottom of the armscye to the center back (CB), perpendicular to the CB line. Add notches along each line about 2” (5 cm) in from the armscye to help with alignment. Cut along each line to create separate yoke and bodice pieces.
4. Draft front yoke. Trace the new yoke pattern piece. Add seam allowances to the armhole and lower edge. Label as Illusion Yoke Front, cut 1 illusion mesh on fold, maintaining the original direction-of-greatest-stretch (DOGS). 
5. Draft back yoke. Repeat the previous step to create the yoke back. Add seam allowances at the CB. Label as Illusion Yoke Back, cut 2 illusion mesh, maintaining the original DOGS .
6. Draft the illusion bodice. Trace the bodice pattern piece. Draw a gentle curve from the underarm seam to the added notch. This will fill in the bodice and help to create the illusion of a strapless dress. Add seam allowances to the upper edge of the bodice. Label as Illusion Bodice Front, cut 1 sequin knit on fold and 1 lining on fold, maintaining the original DOGS. Repeat to create the Illusion Bodice Back, truing the sharp corner into a gentle curve instead of filling in the bodice.

Pegged Skirt with Tulle Flounce Pattern Drafting Instructions

1. Draft the pegged skirt. On the Pencil Skirt Front, draw a line 2” (5 cm) up from the hem to shorten the skirt. Mark 1¾” (4.4 cm) in from the side seam at the new hem. Draw a straight line to connect this mark to the hip notch. Trace a new pattern piece. Label as Pegged Skirt Front, cut 1 fabric on fold and 1 lining on fold, maintaining the original DOGS. Repeat using the Skirt Back to create the Pegged Skirt Back.
2. Draft the skirt flounce. Draw a rectangle 15” (38.1 cm) wide (or your desired length) by twice the pegged skirt hem circumference long. Add seam allowances to all four sides (G). Label as Tulle Flounce, cut 3 tulle, with the grainline parallel to the long edge.

Sewing Instructions

1. Cut out the pattern pieces and transfer pattern markings to the wrong side (WS) of the fabric. Before removing the pattern paper, make a notch at the CF and CB of the bodice neckline and waist. Make a notch at the CF and CB of the skirt waist. These notches will help align the skirt and lining.
2. Stitch the yoke front to the yoke back at the shoulder seams with a ⅝” (1.5 cm) seam allowance, right sides (RS) together. Sew again at ½” (1.3 cm). Trim the excess seam allowance, being careful not to cut into your stitches. Press the shoulder seams to the yoke back.
3. Cut a long length of illusion mesh 1¼” (3.2 cm) wide for binding. Stitch the binding to the yoke CB opening, RS together, with a straight stitch. Trim SA to ⅛” (3 mm). Fold binding over the SA, wrapping tightly, so the raw edge of the binding just covers the sewn seam. Stitch in the ditch with a straight stitch, from the RS of the yoke, to secure. Repeat to bind the yoke neckline and armscyes.
4. Sew the bust dart (busts F–H only) and press the dart down.
5. Stitch the bodice front to the bodice back at the side seams, RS together. Repeat for the bodice lining.
6. Baste the sequin bodice to the yoke front, RS together, matching notches. Repeat to baste the yoke back, aligning the yoke CB opening to the bodice CB notch.
7. Stitch the sequin bodice to the bodice lining, RS together (with the yoke sandwiched between), along the entire upper edge. Grade seam allowances and understitch. Baste the bodice to the lining at the waistline, WS together.
8. Sew the skirt front to the skirt back at the side seams, RS together. Repeat for the lining. 
9. Hem the skirt lining with a ⅝” seam allowance.
10. Create three rings of tulle. Gather one raw edge of each length of tulle. Baste together as one along the gathered edge.
11. Stitch tulle to sequin skirt lower raw edge, RS together, aligning the tulle seam to one side seam and adjusting gathers as needed. Trim seam allowances and press towards the skirt. The tulle will not stretch, so you may wish to leave approximately 6” (15.2 cm) unsewn at the CB to make sure you can get the dress over your head. Use small hooks and eyes to attach the loose tulle to the dress.
12. Baste the skirt to the skirt lining at the waistline, WS together. Stitch the bodice to the skirt at the waistline, RS together, matching notches and side seams, and stitching clear elastic along the waistline as you sew. Hold the elastic taut but do not stretch. Trim seam allowances and press towards the bodice.

This mashup of the Halter Top and Pencil Skirt patterns pays homage to the original dream girl, Barbie, in her very first outfit. The straps of the top are altered and tied together to create a strapless bodice, and the skirt is shortened to a (very!) mini length.

Resources

• Knit fabric with 50–70% two-way stretch for the bodice, skirt, and bodice front lining. Cotton, rayon, and synthetic jersey will work well, as will swimsuit and spandex athletic fabrics. Extra fabric will be required when pattern matching stripes.
• Lining fabric with identical stretch as the fashion fabric for the skirt and bodice back.
• Thread to match
• ¼”-wide (6 mm) clear elastic to stabilize neckline and waist
• ¾”-wide (1.9 cm) silicone elastic for the back neckline

Pattern Pieces Needed

• Self-drafted Strapless Tie-Front Bodice Front (cut 4 fabric)
• Self-drafted Halter Bodice Back (cut 2 fabric, 2 lining)
• Self-drafted Mini Skirt Front (cut 2 fabric)
• Self-drafted Mini Skirt Back (cut 2 fabric)

Pattern Drafting for the “Hack” Self-drafted Pattern Pieces

Strapless Tie-front Bodice Pattern Drafting Instructions

1. Prepare bodice for skirt attachment. Cut the Halter Top Front and Back pattern pieces at the waistline. Add seam allowance below the cut waistline. 
2. Lower the neckline. On the top front, draw a new center front (CF) neckline circle 1¼” (3.2 cm) below the one marked on the pattern.
3. Create bow-ties. On the top front, mark 1½” in from the notched halter strap seamline to shorten the strap. Mark the long edges of the front halter strap 1” (2.5 cm) in from each seamline, then mark ⅜” (1 cm) in from this line. Following the illustration, draw a curved bow shape, starting from the underarm side seam and ending at the CF circle. The bow shape curves in 1⅜” (3.5 cm) from the halter strap edge, curves out to 1” (2.5 cm) from the edge, and ends at a point 1½” in from the short edge. Add seam allowances around both edges of the altered bow shape. Trace a new pattern piece and label the front as Strapless Tie-Front Bodice Front, cut 4 fabric, maintaining the original direction-of-greatest-sew (DOGS). If you are not sewing with stripes, trace and label the back as Halter Bodice Back, cut 1 fabric on fold and 1 lining on fold, maintaining the original DOGS.
4. Prepare for stripe pattern matching (optional). Add seam allowances to the halter top back center back (CB) seam. Trace a new pattern piece. Label as Halter Bodice Back, cut 2 fabric and 2 lining, maintaining the original DOGS. Using the photographs as a guide, draw on the stripe alignment lines. The stripes align approximately 30 degrees from the DOGS line, creating a diamond shape at the CF/CB waistline and running roughly parallel to the underarm halter strap angle. Use this stripe alignment line when cutting out your fabric; do not use the DOGS line.

Mini Skirt Pattern Drafting Instructions

1. Shorten the skirt. Mark 14½” (36.8 cm), or your desired length, down from the waistline on the Pencil Skirt Front CF. Draw a line perpendicular to the CF line to create the hem. Add ⅝” (1.5 cm) hem allowance. Repeat using the Skirt Back to create the Mini Skirt Back. If you are not sewing with stripes, trace new pattern pieces and label as Mini Skirt Front/Back, cut 1 fabric on fold and 1 lining on fold, maintaining the original DOGS.
2. Prepare for stripe pattern matching (optional). Add seam allowances to the skirt CF and CB to create seams. Trace new pattern pieces and label as Mini Skirt Front/Back, cut 2 fabric and 2 lining, maintaining the original DOGS. Using the photographs and your bodice pieces as a guide, draw on the stripe alignment lines. The stripes align approximately 30 degrees from the DOGS line, creating a diamond shape at the CF/CB waistline. Use this stripe alignment line when cutting out your fabric; do not use the DOGS line.

Sewing Instructions

1. Cut out the pattern pieces and transfer pattern markings to the wrong side (WS) of the fabric. If you have cut any pattern pieces on the fold, make a notch at the CF and CB neckline and waistline before removing the pattern paper. These notches will help align the skirt and linings.
2. Stitch the top fronts together at the CF seam from circle to hem, right sides (RS) together. Clip into the seam allowance to the circle, being careful not to clip past your stitches. Stitch the CB seam. Repeat for the lining.
3. On the RS of the top back, attach a length of ¾”-wide (1.9 cm) silicone elastic to the neckline edge, with the upper edge of the elastic aligned ⅝” (1.5 cm) from the raw edge. Zigzag stitch both the top and lower edge of the elastic, using a teflon foot if needed.
4. Stitch the top front to the top back at the side seams, RS together, matching notches. Repeat for the lining. 
5. Stitch the neckline edge of the bodice to the lining, RS together, beginning and ending at the CF circle and pivoting at each bowtie point. Clip corners, grade seam allowances, and understitch the entire neckline, starting/stopping at the narrow section of each bowtie. On the WS of the lining, zigzag stitch clear elastic along the understitched seam allowance, from the outer edge of each bowtie to the side seam. Hold the elastic taut, but do not stretch it as you sew. Baste the bodice fabric and lining WS together at the waistline.
6. Stitch the skirt CF and CB seams, RS together. Stitch the skirt front to the skirt back at the side seams. Repeat for the skirt lining.
7. Stitch the skirt to the skirt lining at the hem, RS together. Understitch. Baste the skirt fabric and lining WS together at the waistline.
8. Stitch the bodice to the skirt, RS together, matching seams and/or notches. Trim the waistline seam allowances and press towards the bodice.
9. 

This pattern takes the classic halter and crosses the ties to create shoulder straps, with an added shoulder drape for drama. It’s paired with the Side Drape Skirt from the book to create this lovely floral jersey dress.

Resources

• Knit fabric with 50–70% two-way stretch for the dress. Because of the drapey nature of the skirt and shoulder drape, cotton and rayon jersey, synthetic jersey, and lightweight knit rayon blends will work best.
• Lining fabric with identical stretch as the fashion fabric. The bodice can be self-lined.
• Heavyweight power net with 50% two-way stretch
• Thread to match

Pattern Pieces Needed

• Self-drafted Halter Dress Front (cut 2 fabric, 2 lining)
• Self-drafted Halter Dress Back (cut 1 fabric on fold, 1 lining on fold)
• Halter Strap (cut 4 fabric)
• Draped Skirt Overlay (cut 1 fabric)
• Draped Skirt Underlay (cut 1 fabric)
• Skirt Back (cut 1 fabric on fold)
• Self-drafted Neckline Slit Facing (cut 2 fabric)
• Self-drafted Shoulder Drape (cut 2 fabric)

Pattern Drafting for the “Hack” Self-drafted Pattern Pieces

The easiest way to draft the front slit and back strap placement is to try on a Halter Top that you’ve already fitted to your body, then mark the desired alterations listed below with safety pins. Transfer these markings to your pattern pieces, making any additional alterations as needed.

1. Prepare bodice for skirt attachment. Cut the Halter Top Front and Back pattern pieces at the waistline. Add seam allowance below the cut waistline. Trace new pattern pieces. Label as Halter Dress Front, cut 2 fabric and 2 lining, or Halter Dress Back, cut 1 fabric on fold and 1 lining on fold, maintaining the original direction-of-greatest-stretch (DOGS) line.
2. Mark neckline slit. Extend the center front (CF) line of the halter top front 2¼” (5.7 cm) past the CF circle. Mark a circle ¼” (6 mm) to the left of the end of the line. This will be the lower edge of the slit opening. Starting at this circle, draw a line 3” (7.6 cm) long, parallel to the halter strap front edge, and mark a circle at the end of the line for the upper edge of the slit opening. The slit opening should be approximately 1½” (3.8 cm) from the halter strap front edge; adjust as needed.
3. Draft neckline slit facing. Draw a rectangle 5” (12.7 cm) long by 2” (5 cm) wide. Draw a 3” (7.6 cm) long line, centered inside the rectangle for the slit opening. Mark each end of the slit opening with a circle. Label as Neckline Slit Facing, cut 2 fabric, with the DOGS running perpendicular to the slit opening.
4. Draft new back halter strap. If you have marked the back strap placement and length adjustments using an existing Halter Top, transfer the strap placement marks to the halter top back and the strap length adjustments to the Halter Strap. Add seam allowances to the modified strap length. Trace new pattern pieces and label as Halter Strap, cut 4 fabric. If you are starting from scratch without an existing Halter Top that fits well, it is easier to skip this step and make the adjustments on the fly while sewing.
5. Draft shoulder drape. Draw a line 40” (1 m) long for the shoulder drape centerline. At one end of the line, draw a line 5” (12.7) long, perpendicular to and centered on the centerline. At the other end of the centerline, draw a line 20” (50.8 cm) long, perpendicular to and centered on the centerline. Connect the corners to create a trapezoid shape. Add seam allowances to all four sides and label as Shoulder Drape, cut 2 fabric, with the DOGS running parallel to the centerline.

Sewing Instructions

1. Cut out the pattern pieces and transfer pattern markings to the wrong side (WS) of the fabric. Before removing the pattern paper, make notches at the neckline and waistline center back (CB) on the top and skirt.
2. Sew the shoulder drape right sides (RS) together along the three longest sides, pivoting at the corners. Trim corners and grade seam allowances. Turn RS out and press flat. Baste the short raw edge and then gather. 
3. Baste the gathered edge of drape to the notched edge of the right halter strap, RS together, evenly distributing gathers. The drape will attach to the right halter strap, but will fall over the left shoulder once the halter straps cross each other.
4. Mark the slit opening and circles on the right halter dress front and right lining front. (The right halter dress front is the side with the shoulder drape attached.) Aligning circles and the marked slit opening, pin one neckline slit facing to each right front, RS together. Stitch a scant ⅛” (3 mm) on either side of the slit opening, using a narrow zigzag stitch, pivoting at circles. Cut the slit open, and trim excess seam allowances. Pull the facing through the slit and press flat, making sure there are no puckers at the corners. 
5. Stitch the halter dress fronts together at the CF seam from circle to hem, RS together. Clip into the seam allowances to the circle, being careful not to clip past your stitches.
6. Gather the top front shoulder. Stitch the halter strap to the halter dress front at the shoulder, RS together, matching notches and circles, evenly distributing gathers, and stitching clear elastic along the seam as you sew. Grade seam allowances. Repeat for the lining, omitting the clear elastic.
7. Stitch the halter dress front to the halter dress back at the side seams, RS together, matching notches. Repeat for the lining. 
8. If you have not already made the strap placement and length adjustments, try on the bodice and mark the strap placement location on the back neckline and shorten the straps as necessary. For mine, I placed my straps 2½” (6.4 cm) in from the side seam and shortened the strap by 5” (12.7 cm). 
9. Stitch the bodice to the lining along the neckline edge, RS together, beginning and ending at the CF circle, pivoting at each strap corner, and leaving an opening for each back strap. The drape will be sandwiched between the fashion fabric and the lining. Be careful not to catch the silicone elastic as you stitch. Grade seam allowances. Understitch the neckline, starting/stopping at each strap as necessary. On the WS of the lining, zigzag stitch clear elastic to the bodice front along the understitched seam allowance, from the side seam to the outer halter strap attachment point and from the CF circle to the inner strap attachment point. Hold the elastic taut, but do not stretch it as you sew.
10. Thread the left (as worn) strap through the slit opening and insert halter straps into the unsewn openings at the back neckline. Stitch the back neckline openings closed, RS together, securing the straps. Turn the garment RS out and baste the bodice to the lining at the waist. Stitch slit opening facings together invisibly by hand.
11. Follow the instructions to sew the Side Drape Skirt, omitting the waistband.
12. Stitch the bodice to the skirt at the waistline, RS together, matching notches and side seams, and stitching clear elastic along the waistline as you sew. Hold the elastic taut but do not stretch. Grade seam allowances and press towards the bodice.

This tutorial from Rachel Petterson, aka Pigs In Pajamas, will show you how to easily transform (almost) any skirt or dress–including one you’ve already made–by adding a removable, twinkling LED underskirt!

For a very detailed tutorial (and even more stunning photos of Rachel’s Festival of Lights skirt!), check out her video on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JmbCMHjQcw

Resources

• Twill tape or bias binding, slightly longer than your waist measurement
• At least 9 pairs of hooks and eyes
• LED fairy lights with a battery pack
• Fabric glue like e6000 Fabric Fuse (optional)
• In addition to the supplies listed above, you’ll also want a skirt or dress already completed.

LED Light-Up Skirt Tutorial

For the example dress, the Maria Dress bodice is paired with the free Charm Circle Skirt. The underskirt is the Stanwyck Skirt, which is also a full circle skirt. When selecting your underskirt pattern, you can use the same shape as your outer skirt (e.g., circle skirt with circle skirt) or you can go smaller (e.g., A-line under circle skirt), but larger (e.g., circle skirt under an A-line) is not recommended.

While this tutorial will work for most skirts and dresses, it does require the outer fabric to have at least some translucency in order to see the lights. Most quilting cottons will work, but mesh fabrics with embellishments like sequins or beads to catch and reflect the LED light are ideal. 

The underskirt fabric should be a medium weight stable fabric like quilting cotton in a color that complements your outer skirt fabric (e.g., black for a dark skirt, white for a light skirt). The underskirt will need to support the weight of the lights and batteries.

Sew the underskirt: follow the instructions for your chosen underskirt, shortening the hem by 2 inches (5.1 cm) and omitting the waistband/facing and zipper. Be sure to keep the zipper opening unsewn. Staystitch the waistline edge, then finish the waistline edge with twill tape or bias binding. 

Add hooks-and-eyes to waistline edge: handstitch hooks to the waistline edge of the underskirt at each side seam, at center front, at either side of the center back zipper, and midway between each location. Add more hooks if you’d like more support for the weight of the underskirt. Handstitch eyes to the outer skirt’s lining, as close to the waistline seam as possible, matching each hook’s location. If your outer skirt doesn’t have a lining, place the eyes on the wrong side of the skirt at the waistline edge (usually the lower edge of the waistband).

Create a pocket for the battery pack(s): cut a 5-inch by 5-inch (12.7 cm x 12.7 cm) square of underskirt fabric. Finish the upper edge, if desired. Stitch the pocket to the right side of the underskirt side seam, at hip height.

Design your LED placement: this is the fun part! Place the battery pack into the pocket and arrange the strands of lights so that they are distributed around the skirt. Make sure the wire doesn’t have any sharp bends or kinks, and make sure it doesn’t cross the zipper opening. 

Attach your LED lights: using fabric glue (which is faster) or handstitching (which allows for more flexibility), attach each LED light to the underskirt. For more security, sew down each wire by hand with long running stitches. TIP: although fairy light LEDs appear to give off light in any direction, there is actually a brighter side—the side that the wire isn’t crossing over. Be sure to have the brighter side up when attaching the string of lights.

Wear your skirt and take a twirl: slip the underskirt between the outer skirt and lining (or to the wrong side of the outer skirt if there is no lining) and attach the hooks to the eyes. Turn on the battery pack and shine like the star you are!

But first, some inspiration! Vampira (played by Maila Nurmi) was a character in a tv show, The Vampira Show, that ran for one year (1954-1955) and was only broadcast to the Los Angeles area. It has become a cult classic and influenced many of the “spooky” shows and characters we love today. Here’s a few of my favorite looks:

While I’ll never achieve that hip-to-waist ratio (!), the lines of her gowns are so similar to the Lorelei Gown that I knew it would make the perfect pattern hack for Halloween.

Resources

• Lorelei Gown pattern
• Black knit leather-look fabric (I’m obsessed! It feels and sews like a ponte knit, but looks SO glam.)
• Power net, lining, thread, a long invisible zipper, and everything else in the Lorelei instructions
• 24-inch-long black fringe
• Rhinestones from our stash (there’s tons available on Etsy)
• Long black wig and as much black eyebrow pencil as you can handle

Vampira Gown Pattern Alterations

1. Draw the seam allowances on the Lorelei Gown Bodice Front Insert (2) pattern piece. Fold the Bodice Front Insert in half lengthwise, as you will be cutting the front bodice on the fold. Measure the neckline edge of the pattern piece (not including the seam allowances!) from the folded edge to the long raw edge. This measurement will be short, around an inch or so.
2. Tape tracing paper to the Bodice Front (1) pattern piece at the center front. Draw a line from the upper CF circle away from the pattern piece, roughly perpendicular to the grainline, equal in length as your measurement in Step One. Draw a line from the lower CF circle to the waistline, parallel to the grainline. Draw a line to connect the two points to create your new center line; connect the end of the first short line to the point where the second line crosses the waistline. This will be your new center front and will be cut on the fold. Draw the “cut on the fold” arrows and scribble out the original grainline.
3. Using a French curve, draw in a new neckline, in any shape you wish. My neckline comes to a deep V point just below the level of my apex, and curves up to the shoulder (about 2 inches or 5 cm away from the armscye edge). Sometimes, I like to pin the pattern piece to my dress form just to help me visualize everything. After you’re happy with the way your neckline looks, add 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance, then cut out and label the pattern piece.
4. Measure the distance of the shoulder edge of your new bodice front, without seam allowance. On the Bodice Back (3) pattern piece, draw a line from the armscye edge along the shoulder equal to this distance (without seam allowances). This will make sure the front and back meets perfectly across the shoulder seam. Draw a long from this mark to the center back seam, to create the new back neckline. I drew a curved line using a large French curve, mimicking the original neckline. Once you’re happy with your back neckline, add 5/8 inch seam allowance, then cut out the pattern piece, truing the neckline dart as needed. Label the pattern piece.
5. It’s a bit hard to tell because of the shaggy cut fabric, but the bicep area of the sleeve remains the same as the Lorelei Gown, and ease is added from the elbow to the wrist to create a bell shape. For the sleeves, draw a line perpendicular to the grainline on the Sleeve (4) pattern piece, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the notches. Draw five lines, about 1 inch apart, parallel to the sleeve centerline from this line to the wrist edge. Slash and spread these five parallel lines to create a bell shape, then tape to a new piece of pattern paper and true the hem edge. You can go as dramatic as you’d like; my sleeve hem ended up being almost a half circle! Cut and label the new pattern piece.

Vampira Gown Sewing Instructions

Follow the Lorelei Gown sewing instructions to create the bodice, cutting the new Bodice Front on the fold in fabric, lining, and power net. Ignore all references to the Bodice Front Insert.

Before inserting the sleeves, try on the bodice and adjust the front waist and bust darts as needed. Some of the bust shaping of the original pattern was provided by the bodice front insert, so you may need to pinch out additional fabric to create a perfect fit. Adjust as needed.

For the sleeves, omit the lining. Sew as usual, then insert into the bodice.

Follow the rest of the instructions to complete the gown (with the panty).

After construction, sew the long fringe around the entire hem, all the way up to the tip of the thigh slit. Use scissors to cut ragged edges on the sleeve hem all the way up to the elbows. Hand sew rhinestones to the sleeves and bodice as desired. Then throw on a black wig and your bra with the most oomph, draw on some dramatic pointed eyebrows, and get ready to scare the neighborhood children!

Claudia lives far away, so we really had to wing it for this one. Here are a few tips we learned while creating her Alice costume:

Choose a Simple Pattern With Fewer Pattern Pieces Children aren’t shaped like small adults. They have different proportions, which means a fitted garment that uses an adult-sized pattern block won’t fit. Avoid patterns with significant shaping at the bust, or with details that emphasize a woman’s curves. For our Alice costume, we started with the Cinch-It Dress, a trapeze dress with a very loose fit, in the smallest size available (size 2, with an A-cup).

Get Out Your Calculator Sizing a pattern up or down requires a bit of math, and you’ll need a few extra measurements. Compare the body measurements to the size chart and the finished measurements listed in the instructions. The Cinch-It Dress has significant ease built into it, so we were most concerned with the fit at the shoulders. Compare the bust measurements between your model and the size chart. In our case, the pattern is 4 inches larger. To find the percentage difference, the math is as follows: (Model’s measurement x100)/ Desired measurement= percent difference. When we plugged in the Cinch-It Dress measurements and Claudia’s measurements, we got a percentage of about 87%, so we found we had to reduce the size 2A pattern pieces by 87%.

Print the Pattern Smaller and Correct the Seam Allowance Print out the pattern pieces using a printer with a custom scale setting set to 87% (or your desired percent difference). Check the test square: it should be .87 of an inch, or just a smidge smaller than 7/8 inch.

Measure your pattern pieces to make sure they will fit your model. The shoulder fit is especially important (for kids as well as adults!).

Before cutting out the pattern pieces, you’ll want to adjust the seam allowances. Our scaled down seam allowance measured just over 1/2 inch, so we added 1/8 inch to the cut line to get our usual 5/8 inch seam allowance. Of course, you could also just sew the garment using smaller seam allowances.

Test the Fit With a Muslin Don’t skip this step! Make a full muslin of the garment, including the collar, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, belt, or whatever other details are included in your pattern. Not only will this help you test the fit of the garment and determine the correct length, it’s also a great tool to make sure the placement and scale of the details are correct.

Complete the Costume The final Cinch-It Dress was sewn in blue cotton, with a white pinafore created by combining the Stanwyck ruffled bib (scaled down to Claudia’s size) with a simple gathered apron that tied at the back. White socks or tights, a pair of black patent shoes, and a black headband will complete the look— but I’ll let her mom worry about that!

This type of pattern hacking is one of my favorite ways to play! I love taking existing Charm patterns and turning them into something new, especially for our Halloween Extravaganza.

For full details and measurements of how to recreate this hack, look to pages 16-19 of Issue 7 of Vintage by Gertie Magazine, available to Patreon members in the Glamour Circle tier and higher, but the basics are as follows:

We started with the Las Vegas Halter Top (available on Patreon) and used ribbon to plan out the size and placement of our color-blocked heart. Once we transferred those lines onto the paper pattern pieces, we lowered the neckline to create more drama, and a more distinctive heart-shape. After a few mock-ups in fabric from our stash, we made a few more changes to the pattern pieces, and moved on to the black and red version you see here.

We paired the top with color-blocked Loretta Shorts (also available on Patreon), turning it into a chic romper and keeping the costume versatile for everyday wear (and for Disney-bounding).

Then, we crafted a separate Homecoming Skirt (another Patreon favorite), complete with a waist facing, to layer over top.

Finally, we crowned this creation with a fabric-wrapped wire headpiece, and the look was complete!

To celebrate the release of the Barbie movie, we’ve created this beautiful hair bow for you! It’s the perfect companion for your pink gingham Barbara Millicent dress (using the recently released Barbara Bodice and Millicent Skirt).

This is a bias-cut hair bow with curved ends, attached to a metal hair clip or comb. You can also attach it to a pin to use it as a broach or purse decoration. The possibilities are endless!

xoxo,
Gertie

PATTERN PIECES

1. Bow
Cut 1 fabric, 1 tulle

2. Knot
Cut 1 fabric

MATERIALS & SUPPLIES

• Barbie Bow Pattern Pieces (downloadable PDF to print)
• ¼ yard of fabric for bow
• ¼ yard of tulle for underlining
• Metal hair clip or plastic hair comb
• Thread to match

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

NOTE: ⅝-inch (in) (1.5 cm) seam allowances are included on all pattern pieces.

SEW THE HAIR BOW

1. Underline the bow: pin the Bow (1) tulle to main fabric, WS together. Baste, using ½-in (1.3 cm) seam allowance and either a hand-sewn basting stitch or a long (5 mm) stitch on your sewing machine. Treat as one.

2. Prepare bow: fold bow in half lengthwise, right sides (RS) together, and pin. Stitch, leaving an opening about 3 in (7.6 cm) wide at the center of the bow. Grade the seams and notch the seam allowances every ½ in (1.3 cm) around the curves. Turn RS out and press flat. Arrange the bow into your preferred shape and pin at the center to hold it into place.
   
3. Prepare the knot: fold the Knot (2) in half, RS together, and pin the long edge. Stitch. Press seam allowances open. Turn RS out. Arrange the stitched seam so it is in the center of the knot and press flat. Press one short edge of the knot ⅝ in (1.5 cm) to the wrong side (the inside of the knot tube).
   
   
   

4. Finish bow: wrap the knot around the center of the bow, hiding the knot’s center seamline and tucking the unpressed raw edge of the knot inside the pressed edge. Slipstitch closed by hand. Handstitch bow to hair clip or hair comb to secure.

Enjoy your cute new Barbie Hair Bow!